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2020.09.01 11:56 herbibotToday Shows : September 1
beep. day in history lookup The Warlocks - 1965/9/1 - In Room, San Mateo, CA No setlist. 1966/9/1 - 710 Ashbury Street becomes the band's residence Grateful Dead - 1968/9/1 - Fillmore West, San Francisco, CA No setlist. Mentions: 0 Grateful Dead - 1969/9/1 - International Speedway, Prairieville, LA Casey Jones, Morning Dew, Mama Tried, High Time, Easy Wind, Dark Star, St. Stephen, The Eleven, Turn on Your Love Light Mentions: 1 Jerry Garcia & Merl Saunders - 1974/9/1 - Keystone, Berkeley, CA Neighbor Neighbor, Finders Keepers, Sitting in Limbo, Favela, Tough Mama, La La, Someday Baby, Think, (I'm a) Road Runner, The Harder They Come, I Second That Emotion, Going Going Gone, Soul Ranch, Mystery Train, Wondering Why, People Make The World Go Round, Jam, It's Too Late, The Night They Drove Old Dixie Down 1975/9/1 - Blues for Allah LP Grateful Dead - 1979/9/1 - Holleder Stadium, Rochester, NYSet 1: Mississippi Half-Step Uptown Toodeloo, Franklin's Tower, Me and My Uncle, Big River, Friend of the Devil, Looks Like Rain, Don't Ease Me In, Lost Sailor, Saint of Circumstance Set 2: Scarlet Begonias, Fire on the Mountain, Drums, Space, Wharf Rat, I Need a Miracle, Bertha, Good Lovin' Encore: One More Saturday Night Mentions: 12 Jerry Garcia Band - 1989/9/1 - Merriweather Post Pavilion, Columbia, MDSet 1: How Sweet It Is (To Be Loved by You), Stop That Train, Get Out of My Life Woman, Run for the Roses, Like a Road, My Sisters and Brothers, Deal Set 2: The Harder They Come, Mission in the Rain, Think, Mississippi Moon, Waiting for a Miracle, That Lucky Old Sun, Tangled Up in Blue Jerry Garcia Band - 1990/9/1 - Shoreline Amphitheatre, Mountain View, CASet 1: How Sweet It Is (To Be Loved by You), Stop That Train, Dear Prudence, I Shall Be Released, Run for the Roses, My Sisters and Brothers, Deal Set 2: I Second That Emotion, Think, And It Stoned Me, Waiting for a Miracle, Don't Let Go, That Lucky Old Sun, Tangled Up in Blue Jerry Garcia Band - 1994/9/1 - The Warfield, San Francisco, CASet 1: How Sweet It Is (To Be Loved by You), Get Out of My Life Woman, Run for the Roses, Simple Twist of Fate, No Bread in the Breadbox, Johnny Too Bad, Deal Set 2: I Second That Emotion, The Maker, Tore Up Over You, Evangeline, Don't Let Go, That Lucky Old Sun, Midnight Moonlight Today Show Playlist other stuff: Robert Hunter Songs Tags: GarciaWeirPigpenBrentPhilPig & BrentDylanR&BC&WRaritiesJam ShakedownScarlet / Sometimes FireEyesBird SongPigpenRandom Dark Star Radio73 > 74Brent Era Popularity by Era Top PerformancesRoll BonesSong Mood? beep.
2020.08.16 03:17 Pigeonofthesea8Welcome :) And a few resources
Hi, everyone. Thank you for joining me here :) (And sorry for not offering an introduction sooner, I started this sub late last night, and then thought “hey, let’s get people in here to talk”.) I’m not an expert or healthcare professional, just to be clear - I’m a caregiver like many of you probably are. I just thought we could do with an Ontario-specific space to discuss the practicalities around getting help. (I sort of thought it’d be mostly caregivers who would be interested, but of course anyone who is themselves living with dementia is welcome 🙏 ) If anyone would like to help moderate, please message me :) I can’t imagine we’ll need much modding, really, so it’d be easy, I’m thinking. I’m glad people have been talking already, that’s great - we’re going to help each other here :) I’ll just start a list of some resources that I can think of for now. Please add anything you think will help, if you feel like it! I’ll update the OP. Reddit dementia alzheimers caregiversupport FTDCaregivers Parkinsons Ontario-specific resources Immediate help LHINs: http://healthcareathome.ca I think LHINs are in the midst of being restructured, but for now they can help. If you’re not already in touch with a LHIN coordinator through a hospital, you can call them directly without a GP’s referral. The Ontario Caregiver Organization. There’s a helpline - available 24/7 by phone, M-F by live chat. The resources page is pretty good (I think). Homes; care at home Government of Ontario pages on supportive housing. Find a long-term care home here, get information on home care, retirement homes here. Results of LTC home inspections - as you may know from the news (or unfortunately, from personal experience), these may not fully represent potential issues. Government of Ontario list of LTC homes with COVID outbreaks Family Councils Ontario - for family members of people living in LTCs. The Patient Ombudsman oversees long-term care homes, hospitals, and LHINS (and any care received in the community). If you need to make a complaint, you can do it here. For LTC homes, you can also make a complaint with the Government of Ontario, here. Financial help Benefits for caregivers from the government of Canada. Government of Ontario page on obtaining family or medical leave and the compassionate care benefit; Government of Canada on EI. (Good overview on these kinds of resources at Elizz.) Diagnosis-specific organizations Alzheimer’s Society of Ontario. City chapters often work with LHINs; some offer respite care, day programs (outside of the pandemic, anyway), and additional support. (They are the go-to for most kinds of dementia.) The Association for Frontotemporal Dementia. American org. There is a private Facebook group. Apparently there’s a Toronto chapter, but I haven’t been able to make contact yet. Info on getting support here Parkinson Society Southwestern Ontario Heart And Stroke Foundation’s local caregiver resources (Ok, this is obviously incomplete! But I’ve got to take a break :) )
2020.08.13 22:52 spykid[discussion] [breeds] what breeds should I be looking into?
I have an idea of the breeds I want, but wondering if there's others I should look into to broaden my pet finder filters. Introduction 1) Will this be your first dog? If not, what experience do you have owning/training dogs? No, I had my own dog (border collie mix) and have lived with roommates' dogs (4 different dogs) for the last few years. I also dogsit for friends a lot. Also had a family dog growing up (I am 31 years old now) 2) Do you have a preference for rescuing a dog vs. going through a [reputable breeder]( http://ownresponsibly.blogspot.com/2011/07/identifying-reputable-breeder.html)? I prefer a rescue, but I'm also picky and not 100% opposed to getting one from a breeder. 3) Describe your ideal dog. Large (80lb +), short haired, light colored (mostly not black), athletic 4) What breeds or types of dogs are you interested in and why? Great danes, weimaraners, bloodhounds, mastiffs, German shepherds, Dobermans, retrievers, probably more 5) What sorts of things would you like to train your dog to do? Nothing specific. I want a dog I can take on long hikes and go on ~5mi runs regularly. 6) Do you want to compete with your dog in a sport (e.g. agility, obedience, rally) or use your dog for a form of work (e.g. hunting, herding, livestock guarding)? If so, how much experience do you have with this work/sport? No Care Commitments 7) How long do you want to devote to training, playing with, or otherwise interacting with your dog each day? An hour a day of walking and/or running. Working from home so I can interact with the dog throughout the day (I'm already not very focused on work) 8) How long can you exercise your dog each day, on average? What sorts of exercise are you planning to give your dog regularly and does that include using a dog park? Dog park a few times a week, daily walks in the neighborhood, 3-5mi runs/jogs a few times a week 9) How much regular brushing are you willing to do? Are you open to trimming hair, cleaning ears, or doing other grooming at home? If not, would you be willing to pay a professional to do it regularly? Prefer a dog that doesn't require professional grooming but happy to brush once a week or so. Don't mind brushing teeth, cleaning ears, filing claws, etc. As needed. Personal Preferences 10) What size dog are you looking for? Large, 80lbs or more 11) How much shedding, barking, and slobber can you handle? Prefer less shedding, minimal barking due to neighbors, slobber is tolerable 12) How important is being able to let your dog off-leash in an unfenced area? Important. I go camping a lot and would want to be able to let my dog hangout in the campsite without being leashed. Dog Personality and Behavior 13) Do you want a snuggly dog or one that prefers some personal space? No preference. 14) Would you prefer a dog that wants to do its own thing or one that’s more eager-to-please? No preference. 15) How would you prefer your dog to respond to someone knocking on the door or entering your yard? How would you prefer your dog to greet strangers or visitors? Alert but friendly. A dog that's able to recognize who friends are is important. 16) Are you willing to manage a dog that is aggressive to other dogs? Yes, but prefer not to 17) Are there any other behaviors you can’t deal with or want to avoid? I think most problematic behaviors can be trained Lifestyle 18) How often and how long will the dog be left alone? A few hours a day at most. My company is transitioning to remote work long term. 19) What are the dog-related preferences of other people in the house and what will be their involvement in caring for the dog? Roommates are glad to have a dog in the house and happy to help on occasion but I will be the sole caretaker. 20) Do you have other pets or are you planning on having other pets? What breed or type of animal are they? No other pets. My girlfriend has a small dog that will probably spend a lot of time with mine. 21) Will the dog be interacting with children regularly? No 22) Do you rent or plan to rent in the future? If applicable, what breed or weight restrictions are on your current lease? I rent. No breed restrictions. We have had 3 dogs in this house in the past couple years. 23) What city or country do you live in and are you aware of any laws banning certain breeds? San Diego, CA, USA. Not aware of any laws banning certain breeds. 24) What is the average temperature of a typical summer and winter day where you live? SUMMER: 80s, WINTER: 50s Additional Information and Questions 25) Please provide any additional information you feel may be relevant. Heat tolerance is important to me! I spend a lot of time outside and I live in southern California. I had a black dog and he used to get way too hot in the sun so I'm avoiding black dogs. Also shorter fur for the same reason. Stamina and athleticism are also important to me because I want a hiking/running buddy. I also drive to camp a lot so my dog would have to be comfortable in a car. 26) Feel free to ask any questions below. Are the breeds I listed worth considering? What other breeds should I consider?
2020.07.31 20:20 Water_makes_me_fartHere's a summary I made about an event in 1955 where several military pilots and and ground radar made contact with a UAP. This UAP displayed similar performance capabilities, maneuvers, and evasion tactics to Cmdr. David Fravor's sighting 49 years later.
When people say that the UAP from Cmdr. Fravor's sighting is advanced military technology, I send them the following synopsis of the 1955 event. There is no way any government or corporation had manned air assets that could hover, perform extremely erratic maneuvers at high speeds, travel at speeds more than double the speed record for 1955, AND have low radar observability outside the knowledge of the U.S. Air Force, the Canadian Air Force, the NSA, and the CIA in 1955. (The airspeed world record for 1955 was 822.1 mph by Horace A. Hanes flying an F100-C Super Sabre out of Palmdale, CA). INVOLVED PARTIES: Archie29: USAF 97th Air Refueling Squadron pilot Lt. Homer H. Speer and copilot Lt Paul Daily of KC-97. Archie91: USAF 97th Air Refueling Squadron pilot Lt. Robert W. Schneck and copilot Lt. David Cueldner of KC-97. Unknown Callsign: Canadian Air Force C-119 (R4Q) Boxcar transport aircraft. Unknown pilots and crew members. Ground Radar Site: USAF ADC site N-23 (Air Defense Direction Center, 640th AC&W Squadron, Harmon AFB). Ground Radar Site Platform: CPS-6B search and height-finder radar & TPS-502 backup height-finder. Ground Radar Site Operator: 2nd Lt. Charles H. Denney (Senior Director, USAF). Ground Radar Technician: 1st Lt. Anthony G. Scarpace (Ground Electronics Officer, 670th ACW Squadron). Investigative bodies: Air Force Special Security Office (AFSSO), National Security Agency subunit AFSS (NSA/AFSS), and Central Intelligence Agency (CIA). SUMMARY: Archie91 and Archie29 were conducting aerial refueling. The weather was clear. Both Archie91 and Archie29, refueling at 20,000 feet, saw two bright objects in the distance. The objects were stationary (hovering). Both aircraft reported the sighting to the ground radar site at Harmon, AFB. Radar confirmed and observed object intermittently for 49 minutes. Archie29 was instructed to approach the object. When Archie29 approached the object, the object matched Archie29’s speed of 275 knots (300mph) and moved away towards the northeast. The object then reversed course and started heading south. Archie29, while maintaining visual contact with the object, radioed the radar operator to report the object's changes in direction. The radar site operator confirmed that the object was changing direction in accordance with Archie29's visual reports. Archie29 then lost visual contact with the object when the object's altitude reached 40,000-50,000 feet. At the sudden increase in the object’s altitude, Harmon AFB scrambled fighters (fighters unable to make visual or radar contact). The radar site maintained a radar contact on the object, and the object changed direction again and began heading northeast at about 1600 knots (roughly 1,841 mph). While this was going on, the radar site picked up another five smaller objects at 5,000-10,000 feet moving very fast. These smaller objects were rapidly changing direction and azimuth while traveling at speeds above 1500 knots (1,726 mph) while popping on and off of the radar scope. Another aircraft (C-119) passed within 5 miles from the smaller objects, but it's unknown if that aircraft made any visual or radar contact. The radar was checked for errors by 1st Lt. Scarpace, who found the radar to be operating properly without any inversion effects present. Source: https://www.nsa.gov/Portals/70/documents/news-features/declassified-documents/ufo/report_air_force_security_office.pdf (See pages 7 & 8).
Hopefully you read Hunting 101 and found it useful. There was a ton of good stuff people added in the comments as well so make sure to go back and read them. I'll be updating and modifying the original OP to add stuff. Unfortunately, the post is something like 399xx characters already and Reddit has a 40K limit. The goal is to post roughly a section per week. These aren't exactly short and take a few days to write/edit. While they're hardly complete, I do want it to contain enough information and resources where it's useful to new hunters. I don't expect to be helping experts by any stretch (I'm no expert myself) so some of this stuff may be generalized. That being said I do need help from someone who can send me some info on pig hunting. I've hunted most species in California and I know pig hunting is popular and lots of people have questions about it; however, pigs are extirpated from San Diego and the only pig hunting I've done is on a ranch in Texas using thermals... which is not legal at all in this state. So if you can do a quick write-up and send me some good info, that would be great. I can edit it and get it into the format I'm rolling with throughout. Also if someone can provide some suggestions on getting started with air rifles that would be great (u/errorseven pointed out I forgot about airguns which is admittedly because I don't know much about them). I should add there is a natural bias toward hunting in Southern California just due to the fact I'm writing what I know and not what I've heard at the campfire. If people from elsewhere in the state have region-specific advice I would really appreciate it if you added it in the comments. After all, we're fortunate enough to live in a state where one can surf, snowboard and hit sand dunes all within 2 hours of each other. The next section will cover elk, coyote, rabbit, and quail. Anyone who has gone elk hunting knows it's very similar to deer hunting so that section will be mostly about the differences instead of a full write-up.
Part 5: Getting the Dream Tag and General Draw Strategies
If you need a quick background on tags please read 'Hunting 101: Part 2: Tags, Stamps, and Points. Oh my!' To start: each person has a different view toward hunting and you need to determine which view you hold. Most new hunters have a "meat in the freezer" attitude whereas people who have been hunting for a while tend to be more in favor of pursuing the trophy animal. What does this really mean? The longer you hunt the more likely you are to pass on the young 2x1 buck (if you don't know what that means quite yet don't worry) and wait for chance of the mythical old 5x5 to come walking up. That is not to say every hunter fits this stereotype or that one view is any better or worse than the other. It's just a generalization. That being said, your attitude will affect your draw strategy. I'll explain more below. Just keep it in the back of your mind for now.
Deer Tag Types - Premium, Restricted and Unrestricted. What it all means: Deer tags in California come in three flavors: 1. Premium - These tags are allocated via lottery. The state determines premium deer tags based on whether the quota of tags was met on or before the first business day following 7/1. In short: if the tag sold out before the draw it's a premium tag the next year. You are limited to one premium tag per year and it must be your "1st Deer Tag" (I'll explain this later). The vast majority of "good" tags are premium tags. 2. Restricted - These tags are tags which didn't sell out by 7/1 but sold out by 8/1. This year there were no restricted tags. These tags are first-come, first-served and take the place of a "1st Deer Tag" if you buy one as a "1st choice" on your "1st tag". If you didn't draw on your premium hunt entry (or entered preference point only), you're permitted to pick up a restricted tag as a second tag. It's a bit weird. For now, think of "restricted tags" as premium tags with 100% draw odds. 3. Unrestricted - These tags are tags which didn't sell out by the first business day after August 1st. These can be either first or second tags. They're sold on a first-come, first-served basis and can be either a 1st or 2nd tag--or both. Deer tags: 1st vs 2nd Explained: When you go to enter the lottery or purchase your deer tags you've got the option of two deer tags. The first tag costs $33.48 and the second is $41.86. The tags are not created equal as weird as it may sound. 1st Deer tag - Think of this as your lottery tag. It's generally a bad strategy to buy an unrestricted tag with your first choice on your 1st deer tag because you're just giving up (potential) points or better tags. You're only allowed to enter a single draw each season. This draw must be on the 1st deer tag. 2nd Deer tag - Treat this as an actual secondary "OTC" tag. If you hunt archery, the AO is your new best friend. Once you buy your second tag, the tag is yours. There is no waiting. If you enter the big game draw in April with a 1st tag premium entry and a 2nd tag unrestricted, the unrestricted tag will actually be mailed to you a month+ before you find out if you drew your first tag. Deer Seasons: General, Archery, Muzzleloading Rifle and Muzzleloading Rifle/Archery I'll keep this short. General - One can hunt with rifle, shotgun, archery equipment, muzzleloading rifle, or crossbow. Archery - One can hunt with archery equipment only. Crossbows aren't archery in California. Muzzleloading Rifle - One can hunt with blackpowder muzzleloading rifles. Muzzleloading Rifle / Archery - I'm sure you'll be shocked to know you can hunt with either muzzloaders or archery equipment. Deer Tags - which tag(s) do I enter for? FIRST DETERMINE YOUR ZONE FROM THIS MAP This is a very difficult question to answer; however, I will hopefully give you enough info here to make an informed choice. The following factors are going to influence your decision making a lot. 1 - Do you live in an unrestricted zone? If so, go with a premium draw on the first tag and grab your local tag for your second if you want to try and harvest two deer, otherwise make your 2nd/3rd choice the unrestricted tag. 2 - Do you want meat in the freezer or a trophy? If you want a trophy, the above D-16 tag is probably not for you. 3 - Archery, rifle or Muzzle-loader? Hunting archery opens up a lot (learn to love the AO) and some muzzle loader hunts in premium zones are easier to draw than equivalent rifle hunts. 4 - Do you want to travel and can you afford the time off? If not, don't buy a tag that's 12 hours away (i.e. X3b for San Diego). Lets give an example of draw strategy: Lets suppose you're a San Diego hunter who prefers to hunt locally for meat-in-the-freezer during deer season because you go trophy hunting out of state. You usually buy two deer tags because you enjoy doubling your disappointment. The tags for San Diego (using our handy map as a reference) are D16 (general, antlered), A-22 (either-sex archery split-season), G-13 (general, antlerless) AO (archery only, antlered), and M-6 (either-sex muzzleloader). Lets break down these tags a bit further.
** This was the first year A-22 was premium. Last year it was restricted if I remember correctly *** I ended up using goHUNT to do draw odds rather than calculate it from the state's data here except for G-13 **** Hunter success estimates from the state assume some who didn't return tags harvested. Take that for what you will. Side note: The reason it's antlered/antlerless is that very, very rarely Does will grow antlers. Kind of a fun fact for the campfire. First thing to check is the season dates. Are you going to be able to hunt those dates? If not, don't bother applying for the tag. Easy enough, right? In this case, for our totally-made-up hunter, he's hunting in Arizona during general rifle in part of October and November, but is otherwise going to be able to hunt most seasons. Second thing: meat or trophy? If trophy is the goal there's little incentive to enter G-13 as it's antlerless and most people don't taxidermy a doe. There's also an argument to be made that the A-22--despite the longer season--isn't worth entering as a premium draw when our hunter can just grab a D-16 or AO tag so he can harvest two bucks (theoretically). That being said, we can see from the table above, trophy bucks are very rare in San Diego. At the same time, we see that "meat in the freezer" happens to only 10.6% of hunters in D-16 (I excluded AO from this because it's impossible to calculate as it's a statewide tag). Third thing: equipment type. Our hunter prefers archery hunting but does rifle hunt. Therefore, the A-22 with the longer season is a good choice. Because the D-16 tag overlaps with the same archery dates as AO, but allows for rifle-hunting, it would make sense to choose D-16 over AO for our hunter as it opens up rifle hunting if he so chooses and he won't be hunting deer outside of the D-16 zone this year in California. Lets go ahead and come up with a draw strategy for this hunter. Since the hunter just wants to put meat on the table, the highest probability of success is the G-13 tag at 17%. However, the odds of drawing one is under 7%, which isn't great for a tag with a harvest rate of only 17%. Therefore, it's best to look at the other tags. We see the next most successful tags are D-16 and A-22. A-22 is a premium tag and D-16 is an unrestricted tag. Therefore, on our application we put for our first tag A-22 and for the second tag a D-16. Now when you go to choose your 1st deer tag it asks you for three choices. These are your first, second, and third choices. For the above, if we want to try and harvest two deer, we can put AO as the second choice. This way if we don't draw A-22 we can still get an AO tag and we still get a preference point for not drawing A-22. Preference points are awarded for not drawing your 1st choice on your 1st tag. But wait, is that really the optimal draw strategy for San Diego? No. The better strategy would be: 1st Tag
1st choice - G-13
2nd choice - A-22
3rd choice - AO
2nd Tag - D-16 If you don't get drawn on G-13 (which you probably won't), you'll be awarded a preference point and entered into the second round drawing on A-22. Since A-22 didn't end up selling out this would have been a 100% draw meaning you'd get the A-22, but also the bonus point for not drawing G-13. However, if you didn't get the A-22, you would then get your 3rd choice: AO. The flip side is you could also sub a D-16 for the A-22 and, assuming D-16 doesn't sell out, you could have two D-16 tags. If it does sell out, you'd get the AO tag with your first and the D-16 with the second. Confused yet? Sorry... I'm doing my best here. How else does choice affect things? Lets say you live in Redding and you're a rifle-only hunter. You want to hunt the area within a half day's drive. This opens up A, B, C and X-zones (plus the D3-5 which is actually a single tag)--lucky you. As a general rule of thumb bound to offend people, X > C > B > A > D(3-5) when you factor harvest rates, trophy size, and percentage of accessible public land... But that's only a general rule so take it for what it is. Therefore, for your 1st deer tag you may want to do the following draw strategy: 1st choice: X-9(a) 2nd choice: C (C zone is one tag for the confused D-zone hunters) 3rd choice: B, A, D(3-5) tag (or any "guaranteed" draw) Why? It enters you into drawing X-9(a) which has a ~1% draw chance on a 0 preference point entry. Assuming you don't draw this tag, it enters you into the second round drawing for C and you're awarded a preference point for not drawing your 1st choice on your 1st tag. C zone has 100% draw rate for first choice applicants. The remaining tags are then pooled into a drawing for the 2nd choice applicants. The draw rate for the 2nd choice varies from 15-40% depending on the year, but is usually around 25%. Not the best odds and this strategy is entirely subjective and that's sort of the point. Do what makes sense for you. For your 2nd deer tag buy a B, A or D3-5 tag or any unrestricted tag assuming you want to try and harvest two deer. Easy enough? Disclaimer: If unrestricted tags sell out before the big game draw, using them as the 2nd or 3rd choice on your first tag can leave you SOL. It's why it's usually better to get something like the D-16 (that could potentially sell out) on your second tag rather than risk losing it. Author's Note: This section took a long time to write because I couldn't figure out a way to explain it without making it super confusing. If it's still confusing please let me know so I can try and fix it. The goal is to make this as approachable as possible. I re-wrote this several times and I'm still not happy with it.
Species other than deer (i.e. elk, antelope and sheep)
1 - your chances will increase if you choose to enter for an archery or muzzleloader tag or you are a "meat in the freezer" hunter and willing to harvest a cow elk or a spike bull. What do I mean? If you enter hunt code 303 (Marble Mountains MuzzleloadeArchery either-sex) your odds are 0.90% to draw without points. If you choose to enter for the 302 tag (Marble Mountains bull general methods) your odds are 0.50%. However, this is only a general rule as the 486 tag (a rifle tag) has 0.2% draw odds while the equivalent archery tag is 0.1%. Another general rule of thumb is that muzzleloader odds are better than archery, which, in turn, is better than rifle.
2 - SHARE hunts. Without points, some of the share hunts actually have better odds than drawing without points. However, you do not gain any preference points when you don't draw a SHARE tag.
3 - Hunt out-of-state.
There is some good news for aspiring elk hunters. The state added several new elk hunts this year and the herd populations appear to be healthy and growing at better-than-expected rates. More tags should be available in future years. So just keep trying. Antelope - Strategies here are pretty much the same as elk. Case in point: 765 (Zone 6 archery) has 1.2% draw odds vs .1% for the equivalent rifle tag. This is another example of where there is only one tag available to those without points (the 765 tag that is). Bighorn Sheep - Same as above. There are 7 "random tags" and 19 "preference point tags" for the entire state. That's 26 tags and 11,627 applicants (not counting 5,641 preference point applicants). Your best odds are Zone 8 and we're still talking .15%. Also keep in mind the "best odds" zone changes most years as people will apply for what they think they'll win. So... should I just apply for preference point only? If you can afford the tag, the time off to hunt/scout, and are willing to put in the work the answer is a hard no. Any chance is better than no chance. I know someone who drew a Arizona Mule Deer "strip" tag as a non-resident with 1 point. For reference, the odds of drawing that are less than a zone 8 sheep tag here in California. Everyone knows someone who drew a dream tag with few/no points. You keep talking about out-of-state hunting... should I get points out-of-state too? Yes. Again, if you can afford to do it you should do it. For reference, I've got preference points for sheep and elk in California, Arizona, and Nevada, antelope in Nevada and California, and bison in Arizona at this point. I drew my Arizona and California mule deer tags this year so my only mule deer preference points are in Nevada at the moment. If you live in Southern California those states are good options for out-of-state hunts since they're easily drive-able.
Antlered - Basically a buck with 2 points on one side and one point on the other is the bare minimum for a "antlered" deer under current definitions.
Antlerless - In California, if there are no antlers or the antlers are shorter than 3 inches and not branched, it's antlerless.
Either-sex - Basically both of the above definitions combined.
What kind of deer are there in California? We have Columbian black-tailed deer and various subspecies of mule deer. This map shows the distributions as well as the mule deer subspecies. When do you start deer hunting? Frankly, you don't stop. If you're out for spring turkey keep an eye out for tracks. If you go out coyote hunting in January you should be doing the same. The more you know and the more time you spend scouting, the more successful you'll be. Everyone knows someone who knows someone who doesn't scout and still manages to punch his tag every opening day. People also win the PowerBall lottery. Doesn't mean I'm going to buy a ticket and quit my job. Hunting takes work. If you're just a "casual" deer hunter (and there's no shame in that) a good time to start scouting and placing cameras is 3 months before the opener if you're not running cameras or scouting year-round. It's just a good rule of thumb to follow but is far from a hard and fast rule and the more time you give yourself the more successful you'll be. Where do I place my game cameras? This question varies a lot due to a number of factors. The biggest being the kind of environment in which you're hunting and how good your cameras are. If you've got a camera that reliably detects movement at 80 feet, you can afford to place them at wider choke points than someone running cameras which are blind past 40 feet. Make sense? So here's a few rules of thumb when placing trail cameras:
The higher up you can place the camera the better, but don't place a camera where you'll need to carry a ladder out with you to get it.
Cameras placed on the ground/rocks will really test the waterproof claims of the manufacturer (really only applies to desert hunters though and I'm sure our NorCal friends are scratching their heads on this one)
Place trail cameras where you see deer tracks. I know this should be obvious but for a lot of people it isn't. It lets you pattern deer.
If you absolutely can't find tracks, place cams in natural draws and near sources of water (if you're hunting the desert look for guzzlers)
If you know the preferred food source place a camera there. Oak trees will start dropping acorns usually around the first week of October and are a great spot to start looking, but can be a disappointment if you're looking to see deer in July.
Finally, if you know a bedding area, place a trail cam there well in advance of the season and then check it the last time at least two weeks prior to opening day. Your behavior will affect deer behavior. That is not a myth.
Some people spray cameras with scent remover. This may or may not be a myth. I do it. To each his own. I think it's most important if placing one near a bedding area and otherwise doesn't really matter.
Make sure a branch isn't going to be waving in the wind right in front of the camera.
Don't make them super obvious. Deer will see them and so will people. If people see it, there's a decent chance your camera will grow legs and walk off.
Mark your cameras on GPS. Lost cameras are sad cameras. Don't make your cameras sad.
How often should I check my cameras? Assuming you're not running fancy LTE cameras just check your cameras every 3 weeks. That is unless you have reason to believe your SD card will be full or your batteries will die (this shouldn't happen though). What if I see nothing on my cameras? If you see nothing and don't see any fresh sign, move the camera. If you see absolutely nothing (not just a lack of deer), it would be smart to make sure your camera is actually working. How do I 'scout'? This really isn't as difficult as it sounds. In short, look for an area on OnX you think has deer and go check it out. Your best option is to arrive at mid-day the first time. WAIT WHAT? WHAT IS THIS HERESY? If you've never been there before you don't know the terrain at all. What you see on OnX or Google Maps can be incredibly deceptive. Especially in Southern California where brush can make entire areas inaccessible that otherwise look great from satellites. Arriving at dawn and just hoping to see deer is optimistic at best. You need to answer the following questions:
Can my vehicle get me within reasonable walking distance? How's parking? Will my vehicle be secure?
Is the hike in and out within my physical limitations and those of my hunting partner(s)--especially if the hike out involves packing out a deer?
Are there tracks or other signs?
Is there water nearby? What about food?
Are there places to set up game cameras?
If stand hunting, is there a place you can place your stand safely and within an ethical shooting distance?
If spot-and-stalk hunting, where are the good glassing spots?
Does this area look like it's hunted frequently or people pass through often? Look for used shells/casings, footprints, and game cameras?
Are there signs of mountain lions?
What is the dominant wind direction?
Where are the natural choke points?
All of these questions are far easier to answer after the sun has come up. For your first trip just go during the day. Also add extra time for getting in and out. What may appear to be an hour long hike may turn into three. Be prepared. Have water and a snack. Once you've determined a spot you want to hunt, it's a good idea to place cameras and then spend the next two weekends scouting other locations. When you come back to check your cameras after three weeks--and you're doing a spot-and-stalk hunt--it's a good idea to get there at sunrise and start glassing from the spots you think are good to glass from. Look for fresh tracks each time you come back. Don't be afraid to move your cameras either. What areas should I look for? This list is endless but a few quick ones are:
Areas within 1-2 miles of water
North-facing slopes when it's hot. South-facing slopes when it's not. As a rule for southern California, until about November, just avoid southwest facing slopes.
Food, food and more food. Find the food sources. Did I mention food?
Areas with shorter "brushy" trees under which deer can bed
Areas that burned within the last 3-5 years. Our fires are good for more than just having your out-of-state friends ask if you're OK.
Transitional zones (i.e. where desert chaparral meets oak trees).
Private property boundaries where deer may not have experienced hunting pressure in the past
How do I glass? Glassing isn't as difficult as some people think, but it's also not as easy as sitting and just looking through a pair of binoculars.
A couple of key ideas:
Start close and work your way out. Don't miss the buck 100 yards in front of you because you're busy looking a mile out
When picking a glassing spot you want to maximize how much you can see, but keep in mind optics have a range. You're probably not going to see deer 2 miles away with only a pair of 8x42 binos.
Open terrain is great, but if you're glassing where there's no food, water, or shelter; well, you probably won't see anything.
Use your GPS to mark (roughly) where the deer are.
Scan with your binoculars (preferably from a tripod) first. Use a spotting scope once you've found what you think is a deer. Scanning with a spotting scope is definitely possible but it will cause eye strain quicker and takes a lot more skill.
Try and find where the deer bed as well as identify what they're eating
Do a scanning pattern that will keep you honest and actually work for you. You want to cover all the ground you can.
Scan from right-to-left (assuming you read left-to-right). Things that don't belong will stand out more and this is a common tactic taught to the military because you've trained your brain to make images fit when scanning left-to-right. Of course, once you've scanned right-to-left, go back and scan again left-to-right.
Bring a comfortable seat/chair.
Go slow. It's not a race.
TAKE A BREAK.
Eye strain is real. You can reduce this through a few methods.
First and foremost is to use a tripod and try to avoid cheap glass
Stay hydrated. Dehydration can cause vision issues... plus is generally bad.
Keep the sun out of your eyes. Wear a hat.
TAKE BREAKS. This is why hunting buddies are best buddies. Swap off glassing every couple of minutes. It's why in hunting shows they always seem so relaxed when glassing.
If your eyes start to feel tired or you start getting a headache just drink some water and take a quick 20 minute nap. Now you know why your grandpap calls it "resting his eyes." You'll thank yourself later.
Pro tip: If you have a laser range finder, you can use it to get the distance to the deer and then use OnX's line distance tool to get a pretty precise marking on where the deer is on your GPS. This is especially useful on a bedded deer you're stalking during archery season. This video by goHUNT is pretty good on how to glass and worth watching. Better than reading my wall of text anyway. How do I stalk a deer? Oh boy. This is a tough one. First and foremost, be patient. Be very, very patient. Then be even more patient. Assuming you're watching the deer through a spotting scope or pair of binoculars, try and wait to see if the deer is going to bed. If it's mid-morning you've got a decent chance of this happening. A bedded deer is going to be easier to stalk than a mobile one. Basic stalking goes like this:
Mark where the deer is as closely as possible on your GPS as well as other deer nearby
Know the direction the deer is heading
Know the range at which you need to get to in order to ethically harvest your deer
Know the wind direction. Stay downwind of the deer.
Look for natural barriers and concealment that can hide your movement. If possible, keep a ridge or hill between you and the deer.
Plot your route before you go.
Glass your route. Make sure you're not going to bump a bedded deer on the way or there is some natural obstruction which will prevent you from getting from A to B.
Have an alternate route. This one is highly underrated and will make you look like a pro to all of your friends.
Mark your glassing spot on your GPS (if you didn't already) and drop as much gear as you can--but make sure you have water and emergency gear... also don't forget your bow release.
Slow is smooth and smooth is fast. Start making your way toward the deer.
If the distance is more than a few hundred yards, it's important that you plan for stops where you can glass and check that your deer is still there and that you're still downwind. Wind direction changes and can be completely different from one side of a valley to the other.
If you're bow hunting, it's a good idea to remove your boots when you're 100 yards out or so. While I don't believe this makes you that much quieter, it will slow you down a lot.
Once you're where you want to be--and the deer is where you want the deer to be--make sure to check the range. Then take a shot!
One more thing: don't get too upset about a blown stalk. No one bats 1.000 when stalking deer. It's just impossible. When are deer most active and what about the moon? Deer are most active around dawn/dusk and tend to bed down when it starts getting hot. That doesn't mean to stop hunting in the middle of the day. Keep glassing. Just understand you're less likely to see them moving. As for the moon, when there is a full moon, deer tend to be more active at night than during the day. That doesn't mean you're not going to find deer during the day. It's just worth mentioning. What about scent control? Scent control is a hotly debated topic among hunters. My personal feelings are you should minimize your scent, but the extreme measures some take are unnecessary. The most important scent control is the wind. Don't be upwind of a deer you're trying to stalk. That being said, use scent-free detergent on your hunting clothes, scent-free deodorant, and scent-free body wash / shampoo and you're good to go. You can give your gear a spray down with a scent eliminator if you want. Some people will claim that this is actually extreme. Personally, I think it's all pretty easy to do and it doesn't really hurt anything. How helpful it is though can be debated. Where do I shoot a deer? First: Don't take a headshot. No offense: you're just not that good. No one is. You'll end up missing or wounding the deer. This site has the best infographics on where to aim, although it's specific to archery. You can shoot a deer straight-on with a rifle, but you risk ruining a lot of meat if you're shooting a rifle with some power to it. In short: aim for the heart and lungs. What do I do when I harvest a deer? First, take your pictures. Try and avoid a lot of blood in pictures. You're bound to share these eventually with non-hunters and blood makes many people uncomfortable. Be considerate. Once you've got your pictures tag your animal. Wondering how? Check out this video made by CDFW. If you're close to home and just going to drag the deer out, you don't have to field dress it; however, it's still a good idea to gut your deer. Wondering how? MeatEater's Steven Rinella has a great how-to video. If you're in the backcountry and need to quarter your deer, there's another MeatEater video which covers it, albeit briefly. There's dozens of other YouTube videos as well. It's important that you get your tag counter-signed as soon as you leave the field. This is a requirement and not a big deal. It can be a bit intimidating the first time, but plenty of people are authorized and most of them are going to be giving you a high-five and not a hard time. Don't forget: within 30 days you need to report your harvest but you should just do it when you get home. Finally, post your picture to Californiahunting so we can give you some well-earned upvotes. What if I didn't harvest a deer? First off, know that you're not alone. Most hunters are unsuccessful when deer hunting in this state. Just get started planning and scouting for next year. Make sure you report that you didn't harvest a deer no later than 1/31, but it's smartest to do it the day the season closes so you don't forget. You can do this online. It's super easy. There's no excuse and it's really helpful to Fish and Wildlife--and therefore helpful to other hunters. Be a good citizen.
Part 7: Dove Hunting
What do I need?
Valid hunting license
Upland Game validation
Patience and realistic expectations (notice a theme on this one?)
12 or 20 gauge shotgun with LOTS of #6 or #7 steel shot. Know what works best for you by spending some time at the range.
Bow with flu-flu arrows
What are the season dates? bigdistance1 has a neat google doc of the seasons. There's also the DFW site. This year the dates are 9/1-9/15 and 11/14 - 12/28. Please note that there is a no-limit open season on Eurasian Collared-doves. What are the bag limits? 15, up to 10 of which may be white-winged doves for Mourning Dove and White-winged doves as well as a possession limit of 3x the daily limit. No daily bag or possession limit on Spotted Dove, Ringed Turtle Dove, or Eurasian Collared-dove. How do I know which dove I shot? This nice little doc from DFW makes it easy. Download it to your phone for reference. There's no shame in making sure you're doing it right. How do I scout for dove or where do I go for dove? Dove are present throughout the state. The best places tend to be the edges of agricultural fields. The best time to scout good dove fields is when you're scouting for deer or rabbit hunting. You'll see dove pretty much everywhere starting around June/July. Just start taking note. When looking on the edges of fields, look for perching/roosting/resting (not sure the right word) sites. These should be trees with few leaves or visual obstructions for the birds, but enough cover for some shade for the birds. Also look around power lines but don't shoot a power line. That will not end well for anyone. Seriously. Don't do it. Doves follow a flight pattern. If you watch where they fly in and out of fields from you'll know where to set up. Gaps in tree cover are pretty commonly the flight paths so start there. Water is another good option. If you've got a water source near a field, and the field is overrun with hunters, go set up by the water source. The best dove hunting in California is arguably Imperial County. The state maintains fields for this that are open to hunting. Important tips
Minimize movement. You can absolutely spook doves. Just be still.
Use a blind. It will help. Wear cammo if you have it.
Bring LOTS of ammo.
If you shoot a banded bird report it. You're not in trouble or anything. Brag to your buddies about it. Just be a good hunter and report it.
Why did you write all this shit? Hunting is an important tradition and lots of people who didn't grow up hunting are starting to get into it but are completely lost. Unfortunately, hunting is a hobby with a steep learning curve that can be downright daunting just to get started with. I'm a selfish person. The more people hunting, well, the better for everyone, myself included. I don't want this state to keep doing shit like banning bobcat hunting for no reason. The more hunters, the more voters, and the better our chances of preserving the tradition are and opening up more public land to recreation. I noticed a mistake! Great! Comment below and I'll fix it. We're all human and I don't pretend to be infallible. Can I get a tl;dr? If you need a tl;dr, sorry. Hunting isn't for you.
2020.07.25 03:00 autotldr1.5 million Canadians have moved back in with their parents
This is the best tl;dr I could make, original reduced by 64%. (I'm a bot)
At least 1.5 million Canadians have moved back in with their parents, according to a national survey by Finder.com. About 1.5 million Canadians have said they have moved home due to the COVID-19 crisis, and 860,917 parents have said their kids have already moved back in. Members of Canada's youngest generation are most likely to have already moved home, with men 21% more likely to move in with their parents as compared with women. Ontario is the epicentre of Canada's 'generation boomerang,' with 10% of people in the province saying they'd moved back in with their parents or had adult children move home with them. While young people moving back home with parents make up the bulk of this trend, it also works in reverse, though on a smaller scale, with 278,532 Canadians who have already moved in with their adult children and another 455,780 seriously considering it. "Our data reveals about a million Canadians who haven't yet moved home with their parents are still seriously considering it, which tells us this trend is not just confined to the pandemic and could be a longer-term setback when it comes to young Canadian adults building wealth and establishing their careers", said Birke.
So you're probably reading this because you're interested in hunting in California and/or you're a new hunter who is struggling to do more than take a long walk in the woods with your weapon of choice. That or you just want to find all my mistakes and point them out. Great! This is written for you (even the pedants). Since someone will ask, no I do not work for Fish and Wildlife. No I am not some professional guide or outfitter. I've just spent a lot of time hunting here as well as other states. I'm a transplanted software engineer on the Losing Side of Twenty-Five who fell victim to the sun and salary trap of San Diego and now I'm stuck. I've posted quite a bit on this subreddit before on a different Reddit account and even met with people from here. Then I lost the password to that account and I guess I never set up a recovery email. I'm bad with computers. Thank God I can fool my employer.
Part 0: How do I actually get started hunting in California?
Step 1: The first step is to complete your Hunter Education Safety Course. If you haven't done this yet you need to do this first. There is no circumventing this. Stop asking. This is the first step and probably 10% of the posts on the sub ask this. At the time of this writing, due to COVID-19, you can do the course entirely online. The course is worth paying attention to. There are a lot of California-specific rules and regulations that are important. I'm not going to go into specifics on how to do the course. If you can't figure it out, please don't start hunting. On the subject of hunter's education, unlike some states such as NY, California does not have a separate archery license and does not require you to complete a Bowhunter's Education Course to receive archery tags. It's still a good idea to do the course as it contains some great knowledge as well as opens up the opportunity to archery hunt in other states.
Step 2: Purchase your hunting license. The cost of a license is $51.02 as of 7/23/2020. You should receive a GO ID number during the process of acquiring your Hunter Safety Card above. This GO ID number is used by Fish and Wildlife to track you. It will be linked to some kind of ID which is also used to track you. In my case, this is my California driver's license. If I go to a license retailer, I can get a license or tag showing my driver's license. You don't need to memorize the GO ID number or anything; however, it is printed on your license documents so it's easy to find (once you have those, of course). If you have a fishing license you already have a GO ID. You can either order your license online straight from CDFW, from a CDFW License Sales Office, or from a licensed agent (the search function here is poorly set up--ignore the name and put in your ZIP or do County and State). Also, remember, your license is valid 7/1 to 6/30. NOT 1/1 to 12/31 like a fishing license.
Does it matter where I buy my license? The answer here for most people is no. If you are a disabled veteran with 50% or greater service-connected disability you need to purchase your license at the CDFW office the first time and bring your VA letter showing your rating and that it's service connected with you. After that you can buy it online or at the retailer of your choice. Disabled veteran licenses are currently $7.73. You may not need to go into a CDFW office due to COVID-19 right now. You should call and ask. Do not take this as gospel. There is also the Recovering Service Member Hunting License which requires a bunch of verification. I won't go into detail since I believe CDFW sold something like 3 of these in all of 2019. If you are mobility impaired, visually disabled, or qualify for the disabled archery permit (allowing you to use a crossbow during archery season), you're required to get your permit as well from a CDFW office as well as provide documentation from a licensed physician. There is no fee for any of those three licenses.
Part 1: What do I really need for hunting?
A hunting license. No seriously. This is a hard and fast requirement for California. If you want to hunt without a license go to Nevada and shoot coyotes (but don't actually do that--just get your damn license).
The appropriate tags. We'll go over this in the next section.
Patience. Temper your expectations. You are going to fail a lot at first. Hunting in California isn't easy and hunting on public land especially so. YouTube and hunting shows make it appear a lot easier than it is thanks to editing. Much like I tell the women I meet: have low expectations. This cannot be stressed enough.
Lead Free Ammo. More on this in a bit. Just remember this is a statewide requirement. Also someone asked me once if this applies to broad-heads for archery. Just lol. Don't be that guy.
General/Basic/Useful Starting Gear (this list is not exhaustive--just some ideas to get started):
Inexpensive pump-action 12 or 20 Gauge shotgun. If you're a new shooter, new to guns and can only afford one to start with this is the way to go. It opens up trap/skeet shooting as a hobby and will allow you to hunt small game, upland birds and waterfowl. A 12 gauge shotgun is sort of the American standard and a worthy first purchase; however, if you're a smaller framed person I would recommend a 20 gauge shotgun. I own both and use the 20 gauge more often than the 12 just because it's lighter to take for a long walk in the woods. It's not a dick/tit measuring contest. Get what you're comfortable with. My recommendation is the Winchester Super XP (SXP) as it comes with two barrels (long for hunting and short for home defense) and three chokes (Full, IC, Mod). Another good choice is the Mossberg 500 All Purpose Field, Classic, or Turkey. Otherwise a used Remington 870 is fine, but I would avoid purchasing a new one due to some serious quality issues in recent years. If you're on a budget, buy a Maverick 88 model 31010, All Purpose. Yes it's cheap. Yes it works. Yes it's reliable. Just realize you won't be flexing on anyone with one. But, again, it's not a dick/tit measuring contest anyway.
Inexpensive .22LR for small game and plinking. Make sure you buy copper ammo for it. If you want a semi-auto .22LR buy a Ruger 10/22 and be done with it. It's basically the Honda Civic of guns and you can't go wrong with one. If you want a bolt-action either buy a Marlin XT-22 or Savage Mark II. You should be able to source a used .22LR in good condition as well if you're short on cash.
Decent big-game rifle If you can't afford to invest in quality for both a gun and a scope buy a quality optic first. Yes, this might seem counter-intuitive; however, you can move the scope from one rifle to the next and it's very unlikely that a new hunteshooter is going to be able to out-shoot even a cheap factory rifle for quite a while. There are tons of options for rifles. Some great options for guns which should be under $900 out-the-door at your local gun store are (in no particular order other than the first two are my favorites): Tikka T3x, Weatherby Vanguard, Bergara B14, Howa 1500, Ruger American, Savage 10/110, and a used Remington 700 (I don't recommend buying a new one anymore). Any of these guns will do you just fine. Don't buy some tacticool shit for hunting like the Ruger Precision Rifle. Don't get me wrong. It's a great gun. It just weighs 10 pounds. You'll find most of the tacticool rifles are excessively heavy or they have shorter barrels for urban combat (which results in lower muzzle velocity and reduces range). Another option is the Mauser 18 which you can get for ~$400 on sale at the moment and is criminally underrated. If you're on a budget the Mossberg Patriot, Thompson/Center Compass II, Savage AXIS Line and the Remington 783 will all be out the door for under $450-ish. They should all get the job done which is the most important thing. Also I only listed bolt-action rifles as I don't want to deal with the what-is and what-isn't questions of legal semi-autos in California.
BUT WHAT CALIBER?1!!?//? Ever want to see nerds fight on the internet? Talk about calibers. If you want a gun which can take any of the big game in California I recommend the following calibers: .308 (usually the easiest to find ammo for), .30-06, 7mm Remington Magnum, 300 Win Mag, .270 and 7mm-08. If you're recoil sensitive, a new shooter, or guns still make you nervous, I recommend the last two as the first two you look at--especially the 7mm-08 as it's criminally underrated. All of those calibers have in-stock lead-free ammo right now at the closest gun store to me (I actually called and asked) and can be used to ethically harvest deer, elk, antelope, bear and sheep. There are tons of other options which people are going to happily point out which are way less common (e.g. 28 Nosler) or rounds which are great, but apparently sold out in lead-free at the moment (like 6.5 CM). While I'm sure tons of people have a ton to say about calibers, no one starting out hunting needs to know that the .30-06 can be filled with slightly more powder than the .308 so you get higher velocities from hand-loads, or that the .300WSM is technically better than a .300WM out of barrels shorter than 24 inches. It literally does not matter. Buy any of the above calibers and you're good to go. Ignore the haters. In a similar vein, anyone who tells you 300 Win Mag is "too big" or "overkill" for a mule deer either a) doesn't hunt or b) probably believes a .50 BMG can kill you with the shockwave from a near-miss. Also don't buy a caliber that you're afraid to shoot. Once again, this isn't a dick/tit measuring contest. I once owned a .300WSM and legitimately hated shooting it. That was a regretful purchase. Don't make the same mistake.
Quality Scope. Buy Vortex. Hell, buy used Vortex and if you get a lemon just send it back to them under the lifetime warranty (no, seriously, it's that easy). Vortex is the best value per dollar with the best customer service and also the best Reddit presence (seriously--just ping vortexoptics with questions and you'll get answers within a day). When it comes to scopes there are tons of options with dozens of different reticles and I will try and briefly give some answers. To cover the focal plane debate, please watch this video from Vortex (I swear I don't work for them). My personal preference is First Focal Plane because I know what my subtensions are and I can accurately judge holdover regardless of my magnification as a result. As for MIL/MRAD vs MOA, here's a video that explains it really doesn't matter. Just make sure your scope adjustments match your reticle. Personally, I shoot MOA because 1 inch at 100 yards is easier for me to visualize. I've shot MIL/MRAD in the past and swapped. As far as reticles go, buy one that you can understand and use with appropriate markings. Don't buy one you don't know how to use (or aren't willing to learn how to use) or that just clutters your field of view. Finally, in regards to magnification, do not overdo it. You're not shooting a deer with a 338 Lapua from 2 1/2 miles away. The low end should be 3x or 4x and the upper end should be 12 to 16x. On my deer rifle I shoot a Viper PST Gen II 3-15x44 FFP with the EBR-7C MOA reticle. With this setup I am comfortable taking shots past 500 yards which is beyond the range most new hunters should ever consider. Now to avoid being accused of being a Vortex corporate shill, I should add that when I shot F-Class my rifle scope was a Nighforce NXS and I've owned Zeiss in the past (before I swapped to FFP) and was quite pleased with the quality of both. They're also more expensive than Vortex so there's that. Oh, and my .22LR has a Nikon Prostaff Rimfire scope on it which has worked flawlessly for 7(?) years now. Seriously. I treat it like shit and it's held zero the entire time. 5/7 would recommend.
A shooting stick. For a large part of California, shooting from a bipod attached to a rifle isn't practical. Whether it's sage or tall grass, it just isn't happening. The Primos Trigger Stick is what you want. There is also the tripod version. I own both and use the trigger stick more often. If I had to choose one I'd go with the monopod because it's easiefaster to deploy.
Good binoculars. Again, I'm going to suggest Vortex. A solid pair of 10x42s or 8x42s are what you're looking for. I rock Diamondback HDs 10x50s I bought used. Keep in mind, these aren't really the binoculars you'll see people "glassing" with. These are more for the mobile hunter and general scanning. If I were to buy a single pair of binos for carrying around, I'd swap my 10x50s for Diamondback HD 8x42s and it's what I suggest you do if you're starting out (again, buy used if you can). In the past I've owned Bushnell binos and they worked for getting started, but quickly left a lot to be desired. While Bushnell quality is a lot better than it was in the past, I still recommend Vortex because I've got personal experience with using them far more recently. Also just ask around. Tons of people have good binos they don't use and will usually part with for way under the replacement value.
A pack. If you're backpack hunting you're going to have different requirements than someone stand hunting within drag distance of their truck. If you want a good pack which will work for most big game situations, buy the ALPS OutdoorZ Commander frame and bag. I owned one. It held up pretty well although it's not waterproof. For the price it's pretty much the best you can do. I upgraded to an Eberlestock Just One Pack J34 with the J2SD Spike Camp Duffel and it's been good so far. I'll be really testing it this fall though. If you don't need a full pack, I use a ALPS OutdoorZ Pathfinder with the Turkey call and game bag. Granted when I purchased it the two came together so they may have since modified it, but I still recommend it. Keeps all your stuff handy. I actually use it for turkey hunting. If you just want a simple day pack (or want to mix the daypack with the Pathfinder), I bought this a few years ago at Big5 for like $50 and it's held up just fine. The buckles are a PITA but at least they don't break.
Good knife. I actually don't know that much about knives. I use a Havalon Piranta Edge because I'm too lazy to sharpen blades. I've skinned a lot of game with it and love it. My buddy has the Buck Knives 141 and another carries a Buck 110. As long as the knife is sharp it will work. If you don't know how to sharpen a knife, get the Havalon or similar knife with replacement blades.
What about archery???!?1 If you want to start bow-hunting--which you absolutely should--you really need to go to an archery shop and talk to the employees. Tell them your budget (make sure they know you need a full set up for that amount and not just a bow). They'll have you test fire bows and measure your draw length. Help you figure out what draw weight you're comfortable with. You'll need to find the bow that works for you. It's not the same as buying a gun. Bows are much more individual. Don't be embarassed because you're shooting a 40lb draw. The more you practice the more it will go up. I shoot a 60lb draw and have zero intention of ever going up. It's more than enough. Once again, hunting is not a dick/tit measuring contest. Don't believe the hype that you need to have an 80lb pull bow. If you've never shot a bow before don't waste your money on a flagship. I currently shoot a Bowtech Revolt X which is basically sex in bow form. It's also overkill for someone who has never even shot a bow before. If you have a limit of $500 for bow + arrows, the Diamond SB-1 Edge is a "good enough" solution and I know two people who have taken deer with one. It's not great, but it'll do the trick to get you started. If you need the recommendation on a bow shop in the San Diego area the only shop you need to go to is the Bow N Arrow Shop in Lakeside. Make an appointment and tell Bruce your situation. He will go out of his way to help you. One other thing: crossbows are considered firearms in California in relation to hunting seasons, so basically a crossbow can't be used on an archery tag during archery season.
Camping equipment for backpack hunters. Check Craigslist for good deals. I've had the same REI tent and stove for years. Also, look at camping's sidebar for all the camping-related and gear-related sub-reddits. They have far more on this subject than I could ever hope to fit here.
Cooler. If you're going to be traveling a distance and need to keep ice cool for several days I can personally recommend RTIC because I'm too cheap for Yeti, but Yeti are very good coolers as well. Otherwise Igloo or Coleman coolers work just fine. Don't let the marketing fool you. You do not need a Yeti/RTIC if you're just starting out and not leaving the cooler in the Arizona sun for 6 days straight. Hell, if you're going to be home within an hour you don't even need a cooler. As for size, 65 quarts fits a quartered mule deer and ice.
Clothing. I'll be honest. If you're just getting started and on a budget just go to Walmart and buy some cheap camo. Don't overthink it because it will work just fine. This might be sacrilege to the guy wearing $800 worth of Sitka clothes, but at least your credit card isn't max'd. If you can't afford Sitka, but also don't want to walk into Walmart, just look for King's Camo or Badlands. I wear a mix of stuff personally and it's mostly First Lite and King's Camo. Of course, if you've got the money, Sitka, First Lite and KUIU are great. Buy a good pair of gaiters. Also wool is your best friend. I have a pair of Kenetrek gaiters and they're great. You should also wear gloves even in the summer months. It will save your hands from getting cut up.
Laser Range Finder This isn't a requirement to get started hunting, but if you've got the stuff above and especially if you're bowhunting it's a very nice thing to have. Personally I use a Vortex Ranger 1800 but the Impact 1000 is a great starting point. In the past I had a Leupold RX-1000i TBR that was great until it decided to die on me. Bushnell makes great rangefinders and if you're doing archery on a budget this is a good option. Also check classified ads for golf. Sometimes you'll find some deals on rangefinders there.
Binoculars for glassing and a tripod. This is especially true for anyone hunting SoCal where you need to glass. You want a good 15x56 or 18x56 and a solid tripod. I'm currently waiting on these Diamondback HD 15x56 to come in stock where I usually buy my optics so I can replace my less-than-great Nikon 16x50s. As for tripods, I have a Vortex Summit SS-P and it works pretty well. I use it for my spotting scope and it's admittedly a little light for that, but that can be offset pretty well by hanging weight from the balance hook.
Spotting scope I use a Vortex Viper HD 15-45x65 (angled). It's great and I can count points from crazy distances while also being light enough I don't mind carrying it. I love it. The only other spotting scope I've used is a Swarovski and the thing was incredible--but it also costs as much as 1.5 KLR650s.
Game Cameras Since I'm going to assume most people are hunting on public land I recommend you just buy some cheap Chinesium generic cams. Game cams are prone to wandering off for unknown reasons on public land. Obviously if you're hunting private property you should have a safer investment, so feel free to spend some more on actual quality cams. As for everyone else? Cheap Chinesium it is. Use lithium batteries with the cameras to maximize the cheaply-engineered battery life and a cheap 32GB class 10 SD card. It works out to something like $52 a camera between cam, batteries and SD card. You're going to lose them. Don't splurge here unless your daily driver is a Bugatti.
goHUNT Insider Membership. In reality, this isn't actually that useful when you're first starting out if you're only sticking to hunting inside of California. Once you decide to expand your hunting horizons it's super valuable. They also have great articles on their site.
4WD Vehicle There are a lot of rough desert service roads--especially around San Diego and Imperial Counties--which open up a lot of public land for you to hunt, but they can only safely accessed with 4WD. Is this a requirement to get started hunting? Not at all. Should you buy a 4WD vehicle just to go hunting? Probably not if you ask personalfinance. Is it nice to have? Absolutely. Even better if it belongs to your friend. I can't begin to tell you how many scratches my truck has from going off-road...
Private Property. If you can't afford it find someone who owns property and ask for permission. You'll be surprised how many landowners will agree--especially if you bow-hunt. I've got permission in the past to hunt on private property in San Diego. How did I manage it? I asked. That simple. Tons of hunters complain about not being able to hunt on private property but have never even tried asking. Just get used to getting rejected. Thankfully my dating life prepared me well for this.
Hunting Buddy. More on this later. Suffice to say friends are good to have.
Part 2: Tags, Stamps, and Points. Oh my!
What are tags? Tags are a permit to harvest a specific big game animal. They're sold in addition to your regular hunting license.
Why do I need them? You need tags to harvest deer, elk, pronhorn antelope, bighorn sheep, wild pig, or black bear.
How many tags can I have? You are limited to two deer tags each year and one each of elk, antelope, sheep and black bear. You can purchase an unlimited number of pig tags.
How do I get tags? Pig tags and black bear tags are sold "over-the-counter" (OTC) This means you can drive to your local Big 5, buy a tag, and then head straight to the woods and try and harvest an animal. Well, in theory. If 1,700 bears are harvested statewide, the bear season is closed; however, that hasn't happened since California banned bear hunting with dogs c. 2011. We haven't even come close since then. Some deer tags are OTC but most are not. Most deer tags are considered premium deer tags and allocated via lottery, then there are restricted deer tags (these are less common), and finally unrestricted deer tags. I will cover these differences in the section on deer. ALL Elk, Pronghorn, and Sheep tags are awarded through a lottery drawing. None are sold OTC in the state of California.
What are stamps? Stamps are endorsements on your license similar to endorsements on a driver's license. They entitle you to certain privileges. In California, these privileges are exclusively related to bird hunting.
Why do I need them? If you want to hunt upland game, waterfowl, or other migratory birds, you need the appropriate stamps. There are three stamps. If you want to hunt waterfowl (i.e. ducks) you need the "California Duck Validation" as well as the "Federal Duck Stamp." If you want to hunt upland game (i.e. turkey, dove, pheasant or quail) you need the "Upland Game Bird Validation".
How many stamps do I need? You just buy the stamps once per year. If you're going duck hunting, buy the two validations and you're good to go for the season. Same as the Upland Game stamp. It's valid for the same dates as your hunting license.
How do I get stamps/validations? Same place you got your hunting license. You can order it online or go to a licensed retailer. It's super easy. There is no limit or lottery or anything.
What are points? Points, or preference points as they're technically known, are awarded for each year you enter a tag lottery and don't win the tag. They exist in an attempt to award a limited number of tags in a fair manner which rewards people who have tried for the tags the longest
Why do I need them? It's practically impossible to draw elk, pronghorn, sheep and a large number of deer tags without them. I'll explain them more in depth later, but suffice it to say for now each point increases your likelihood of getting drawn.
How many points do I need? That depends on the species and the hunt. It can be as low as zero or one to as high as the current maximum of 19 points on next year's application.
How do I get points? Say it's your first year and you entered for a Bighorn Sheep tag and didn't win. You'll be awarded a point for this entry. The next year you'll have one point. If you don't win in your second year, you'll get another point and so on. Once you win your points zero. You can also elect to just buy a point by noting "Preference Point Only" instead of entering a specific drawing on your application. However you can not choose both "Preference Point Only" as well as entering a drawing. It's one or the other.
Part 3: Finding Public Land to Hunt On
It's not that hard. I swear. There are 38,197,000 acres of public land--38% of the entire state--open to hunting. Is it hard to find GOOD hunting land not overrun by other hunters? Yes. That's why you scout and get used to hiking quite a bit. It's not impossible, however, and that's what matters. Use OnX. No seriously. It's worth every cent. Every single time a new hunter asks me where to go my answer is OnX. I don't want to do a write-up on every amazing feature this software has to offer because they have a YouTube channel where they do it better than I ever could. That being said, there are a few things worth mentioning for people who are too lazy to watch some YouTube videos. First - you can use OnX from both a PC and smartphone. I'm mentioning this because quite a few people I know were surprised when I told them the website works from PC. It's way easier to plan a hunt on a 27 inch monitor than a 5.8 inch phone. The website and the phone app are synced so if you add a marker to the website, it appears on the phone (and vice versa). Second - check out the layers library and use them. As an example, you should have the layer for recent fires turned on when you're looking for bear, deer or elk opportunities. Again, I'm not sure why people don't realize this is available. Third - use markers and colors which make sense. When I first started using OnX, I would mark everything in the most haphazard fashion. It's not useful. I suggest keeping it simple. If I think an area might have access I drop a yellow "A", if I confirm that it has access I drop a blue"A" and if it turns out there's no getting there I set a red "A". It makes it easy to read quickly. However, do whatever is easy and works for you. Just make sure you understand what you're looking at and you're consistent with it. What kind of land can I hunt on?Legal Disclaimer: You should verify with all respective agencies and landowners that hunting is permitted at specific locations because I'm not responsible for you going to jail etc.
BLM Land. OnX marks BLM land in yellow. BLM land typically allows dispersed camping without permits. At least in Southern California deserts, the BLM has decently maintained dirt access roads throughout. On most BLM land throughout the state you can also target shoot however this needs to be checked with the local field office first. Also, if you see a "No Shooting" sign they're talking about target shooting. You can still discharge a firearm during the lawful pursuit of game. Just a protip.
National Forest. Most National Forest property can be hunted on and if hunting is prohibited it will be clearly marked. OnX marks National Forest property in green. Roads are typically maintained pretty well through National Forest property. A large number of the roads throughout Cleveland National Forest in San Diego can be access with a front-wheel drive compact car and a sufficiently brave driver.
Wilderness Areas. Most Wilderness Areas can be hunted. There are cases where there may be an endangered animal (such as a butterfly here in San Diego) which results in some acres being closed to any and all access--not just hunting; however, this is exceedingly rare and it will be clearly posted. It's important to note you can not operate a motorized/mechanical vehicle (including a bicycle) within the bounds of the wilderness area. You will be walking in and out. Don't drive your jeep down a fire road through a wilderness area. Just because the road exists doesn't make it OK. Follow the rules. There will be signs telling you not to do it. It's pretty hard to claim ignorance on this one. OnX marks Wilderness Areas with a dotted pattern. You will notice this wilderness area is part of a national forest from the color of the lower layer. See? Learning has occurred.
In Imperial County specifically you can hunt on IID Land. I'm adding this here because the Imperial Irrigation District (IID) permits hunting on their properties. You will probably be stopped by an IID officeemployee at some point. They're friendly and usually super helpful. There's just a pretty big crime problem in El Centro right now where farming equipment (including things like full-size tractors) are getting stolen and IID actively checks their properties for suspicious people. All that being said, it is not the standard for private water to allow hunting. Vista Irrigation District in San Diego leases their land to hunters through the "My Country Club" program at $3,000 a year. However, it's still worth checking where you live. You can just call the local irrigation district office and ask.
Private Property with Permission. You can use OnX for this as well. It helps you locate property owners. I don't want to doxx anyone so no screenshot, but every registered property owner is available to you. If you find a piece of land you wish to hunt you can use this information to find the owner. My house sits on an 1/8th of an acre and if I click the parcel it has my full name (including middle initial weirdly enough) as well as address. And, no, you can't hunt on my tiny slice of land I call home. The HOA would definitely frown on that.
Hunting Clubs. This is particularly true for upland game bird or duck hunting. A lot of hunting clubs own or lease property they maintain specifically for hunting. If you can afford it, this is a good option and it's a great way to meet other hunters. Think of it as the Country Clubs of the hunting world.
Private Property through a Guide Service. Again, this will cost you. However, most guide services have agreements with property owners to hunt private property. There is no shame in hiring a guide either. If you want to get better at a hobby it's common to pay for lessons. Why is hunting any different?
SOME National Recreation Areas and National Preserves / Lands administered by NPS. In Southern California, the big one which permits hunting is Mojave National Preserve (which is a great place for quail by the way). OnX marks it in this purple (fuchsia?) color. National Recreation Area is the same color and places such as Lake Meade National Recreation Area in Nevada permit hunting. I assume there are places in California which do but I don't know any off the top of my head and I'm too lazy to do your research for you. Just check the regulations before you go. Everything is online these days. There is no excuse. The incomplete list of places you can hunt is here because the government can't be bothered to maintain it. Case in point: Mojave National Preserve isn't even listed but hunting is listed on their own website for those wondering.
Military Bases. Some military bases permit hunting to the public (Fort Hunter Liggett is one). Others permit hunting only to active duty service members or retirees (Camp Pendleton). Each base has their own rules and regulations. If you're close to a base it's worth checking to see if they allow hunting and what the requirements for access are.
? Some Logging Company Properties ?. I've heard this from multiple people, but I live in Southern California where this isn't really a thing. If someone from NorCal can chime in that would be great.
What Kind of land CAN'T I hunt on?
State Parks. There is no hunting on state parks in California.
MOST National Parks / National Monuments. Again, research before you go. Just realize most properties are going to be a big no-no.
MOST National Wildlife Refuges. There are some you can hunt on though. It's worth checking. Just understand most refuges do not permit hunting and those that do typically regulate what you can and can't hunt.
Private Property without Written Permission. Seriously. Don't be that guy. Oddly enough there are exceptions to this rule in other places (dove hunting in Yuma, AZ is permitted on private non-residential farming property as long as there isn't a posted sign forbidding it). But when you're in California this is a hard and fast rule. Once again: don't be that guy (or gal).
Will you tell me your secret spot? I don't have one and none of my spots are secrets. They're all on public land. If you're really lost-in-space or just generally nervous about going somewhere you scouted through a website and you happen to be local to Southern California, just message me and I'll help out. It's really not that difficult though.
Part 4: Alternatives For When You Don't Get The Tag You Want
SHARE Hunts for Elk This is a California-specific hunting opportunity. It's another lottery but it's an agreement between the state and private landowners to permit very regulated hunting on their properties. Each hunt is different and, again, this is a lottery so it's basically a moonshot; however, the odds of getting drawn on an elk tag is actually higher here than most general draws are with zero points. The money goes back into the program. The SHARE elk drawings close 7/24 this year. Which happens to be today. You can read more about the SHARE opportunities here. Enter through the online DFW license sales. Leaving California (Hunting out-of-state): Since you can check out, but never leave, right? It's worth looking at other states.
OTC Elk - Colorado, Idaho, Oregon, Utah and Washington all offer OTC tags. This will cost you $450-$750 for the non-resident hunting license and the tag.
OTC Antelope - Wyoming has good draw odds (some are 100%). Otherwise I think Idaho is the only state with OTC antelope tags and it's archery only. New Mexico does weird OTC tags as well, but they're only valid on private property so if you pay for access this is a good option I guess.
OTC Sheep - Literally does not exist. You can do a ranch hunt in Texas if you want to harvest a sheep. Otherwise sorry.
OTC Deer - Arizona late season (DecembeJanuary) offers OTC archery hunts for both Mule deer and Coues deer with success rates as high as mid-30%. You will see TONS of deer. This is an excellent opportunity for archers. Otherwise, Idaho offers OTC Mule Deer and some 2nd/3rd season hunts in Colorado are OTC. Other states have leftover tags that are first-come, first-served. Montana and Arizona fit this category.
DISABLED VETERANS SPECIFICALLY - You can hunt in Idaho on a non-resident disabled veterans permit for cheap. A license + OTC elk tag + OTC mule deer tag is something like $100. Plus you can punch your mule deer tag on a black bear if you really want to. If you fit the criteria this is an absolutely amazing opportunity.
2020.07.18 21:16 aSemySuccessor for childhood Questar
Growing up I was fortunate enough to have access a Questar Standard 3.5", which was something I really enjoyed. Now I've moved away I'd like to get my own telescope. I was able to take some faint pictures on my dSLR of 2020 NEOWISE which has inspired me to finally get new telescope. Since I have experience with the Questar I'm using that as a target. So something like a mak-cas, 1300mm focal length, 90mm diameter, f/14. Thanks very much for having such a cool subreddit where people can ask questions like this :)
Around €600, but for an absolutely perfect scope I could spend more.
portable by walking/cycling
primarily for planetary viewing
capable of astrophotography with a micro 4/3 dSLR (with a flip mirror to toggle between the sight and the camera?)
star tracking motodrive
I'd prefer not to have a goto, as I enjoy hunting out targets so it probably won't be used
small collapsible tripod, I don't mind using it on a table/sitting down on the floor
I live in Europe
Light pollution is pretty heavy
I have somewhere to cool the telescope down before use
It would nice to be able to get an 'all in one' package by a manufacturer that is well supported by aftermarket accessories so I can indulge later.
Here are some scopes that have caught my eye while browsing.
90mm aperture, 1250 focal length
There's a lot of mak-cas scopes that look very similar. I suspect they're the same, but are branded? These just look okay, nothing spectacular. I like that some of them come with mounts, finders, and eyepieces
2020.07.17 17:52 PerdinVancouver – Friday`s Question – “What’s your favourite park/patio/outside spot in Vancouver? Covid-19 modifier: Where do you go outside but away from crowds?”
Sun’s out, bun’s out,/Vancouver. I’m pale as Casper the Friendly Ghost, don’t like the heat, and rarely go outside. I’m in the minority here because Vancouver loves its outdoors and hot weather. With another beautiful weekend coming up, where do you like to go outside in Vancouver? Most importantly, where do you like to go that isn’t overly crowded? It seems like a lot of parks are pretty crowded right now. I will be utterly useless for this, but I’m planning to meet some people for a picnic dinner at [Lions Park](shorturl.at/lyUV0) sometime this weekend. It’s a park around my childhood home so I would say that’s my favourite by default, but I haven’t been there in like a decade. I also don’t know what the needle to playground equipment ratio is or how many deathtraps it has, both big deciding factors for families when choosing a park. As for low-key parks… I dig Falaise Park. It’s an enormous park and has a magnificent view of the area, especially at sundown. If it’s too crowded, you can just move to a different section of the park behind the nearby school, or across the street, all of which are dog friendly (Dog can be off leash). The small portion of the park behind the school is cool and usually filled with a lot of doggos running around, which is where I like to take Olly. Where are your favourite places /Vancouver? Have a great Friday, almost made it to the weekend!
I want to preface this by saying that this post will be centered on celebrating the life of Naya Rivera, and finding cosmic catharsis about what Astrology can show us about this moment in time for her and her soul. I will be couching everything in my Aquarius brand of impartiality, which I hope conveys a spirit of education and understanding versus usurping a tragic moment for clout. Though, if you see it that way, I do understand. I figured that since now all the what if's and when's and how's of the event have been answered, it would be an ok time to approach this event from a spiritual POV, and add to the zeitgeist of the moment. I won't be examining the death of Naya or the circumstances surrounding it. I instead was curious about the Astrological through-line between Cory and Naya, and how the day of her recovery marked 7 years since his passing. One of their Glee costars stated that Cory, in spirit, helped find Naya yesterday, bringing closure and peace. That made me go "hmm". And instead of excavating the crude facts of the moment, I was curious to examine what Astrology had to say about more intangible things like spirit guides, or help from beyond, the soul, and other karmic resonances. Naya's body was recovered at 9:10 am in Ventura, CA (Lake Piru) on July 13th, 2020. source For this, I want to focus on the NN (soul stuff), the MC (the most elevated part of the chart) and the Sun. Why? I figured that a recovery mission, something brought to light, would engage the planet of spotlight (Sun) and the highest moment in the sky (midheaven/MC). NN would point more towards the soul direction of a moment. I will also incorporate the 12th house--where things hide, and especially in water. Here is what I found: -The chart of the moment of recovery for Naya has the MC at 27 degrees of Taurus. Cory's Sun in Taurus conjuncts that point. -Cory's Sun in Taurus is also in Naya's natal 12th house. When you read this from a synastry POV, there are overwhelming themes of unconscious/subconscious bonds. Trouble, endings, loss. The Sun person illuminates the 12th house. Extrapolate if you will, to see Cory's Sun as helpefinder of Naya's resting place, where she lost her life, where she transitioned into the unconscious -The asteroid "Cora", closest to Cory (which I've learned is okay--to find the object with the name CLOSEST to the one you're looking for), is exactly conjunct the NN of the moment, 28 Gemini. Naya's natal Moon is also 28 Gemini in the 1st house. Cora, besides being facsimile for "Cory", is a name derived from the Greek goddess Persephone. She was goddess of the underworld, and represents the "perennial change from life to death" -With the NN of the moment at 28 Gemini, exactly conjunct her natal Moon--we can see that the direction of karma in the moment related to her identity as mother. She put the responsibility of being a mother ahead of herself (Moon in 1st house). Reports are now showing that Naya used the last of her energy to boost her son up on the boat, unable to muster the energy to save herself. -In the chart of Naya's recovery, the asteroid "Nayam" was in the 12th house, and "Nayan" in the 7th conjunct Neptune, a planet responsible for drownings. -Cory's Cancer NN conjunct the Cancer Sun of the moment Naya was found -Seven years ago, Mars was at 29 degrees of Gemini, conj Naya's Moon. Conj. the NN of her recovery. Not sure what this means but wanted to make mention. -Naya's NN in Aries squares Cory's NN in Cancer almost exactly:
"When one person's Nodes squares the other person's Nodes in synastry this will correlate to two Souls who have been in some kind of relationship in which various dynamics and issues between them has caused them to separate from one another previous to the current life. Coming into this life with that signature correlates to the intentions of each of their Soul's to 'pick up where it was left off' in order to continue to confront those issues so that the evolution together can continue in some way."
I find that to be very resonate, given that she was found on an anniversary of his death, and generally also died around the anniversary of his death. Both of their souls were working in tangent, but it is not up to us to clearly know or see how. That is all I have for now, or perhaps forever. Without Cory's actual birth time and therefore house placement, there is only so much excavation that can be done. But I hope what I provided above helped you to be able reframe the breadth (and depth) of astrology, and see how it can be used to tie together resonance between two souls. Thoughts? I'm 100% down with people thinking this is a stretch. Edit: The sabian symbol for 20 degrees Cancer is "Gondoliers in serenade". Two singers on the water. 20 cancer is the Sun on the moment of Naya’s recovery and the Sun on Cory’s death.
2020.06.25 08:40 BuyLocalizedSTICKY - A master sheet of sites
This is a collection of links to lists of companies that manufacture in a variety of places. I’m only adding the english ones myself, but I would be grateful if people fluent in other languages did it for other countries. For the moment I won’t bother ordering them, though some are significantly more useful than others. I’m open to ideas on an effective way to organise them within their categories. General https://www.productfrom.com/ Non-China
Wayfair has a Made in the USA option for a lot of their product categories. Canada Canada has 2 designations, product of Canada which means all or virtually all of the labour, components and manufacturing are done in Canada, and made in Canada where 51%+ of those things are done in Canada.
Australia Australia's rules are similar to Canada's, they use both a "Made in" and "Product of". "Product of" has a similar threshold to the USA definition of Made in, whereas "Made in" for Australia has the low threshold of a substantial transformation.
2020.06.15 04:13 cambodia87800+ beers available for delivery to Ottawa from 90+ Ontario breweries
Hey /BeerInOttawa, Just thought I would share a link to Beer Finder, a tool for finding craft beer delivery in Ontario, in case some people here haven't seen it yet (I know the sub was locked for a bit so I didn't share previously). You can search by style, flavour, brewery location, etc, and then order directly from the brewery. We've been working on this site for a couple months during this pandemic and it looks like many breweries will be continuing to deliver for the foreseeable future, so I hope this can help you find your next beer shipment from an Ontario brewery. Let me know if you would like to see any improvements to make it easier to use, or if anything is missing that you would like to see on here. Cheers!
2020.05.24 08:24 gofishus[Question] Are Shinola watches really that bad and overpriced as people say?
So I've been looking at some nice Shinolas... I know its the brand everyone loves to hate, but really I do like some of their styling. The first thing whenever 'Shinola quality' is googled is all these posts and videos about how bad their quality is, how overpriced they are, how not 'made in America/Detroit' they are ... but I have gone through all the feedback, and honestly the main problems seem to be:
Shinola is using Chinese cases and Swiss movements and merely assembling them in America and labeling it 'made in Detroit'
Shinola are overpriced fashion quartz watches
and let me ask a few questions about these two points: pertaining to 1) - isn't this how Swiss made, made in Germany etc all labeled as well? Here's the definition of "Swiss made" by law - "Swiss law considers a watch to be Swiss made if its movement is Swiss, if the movement has been assembled in the Swiss region, its final inspection occurred in Switzerland, and at least 60% of manufacturing costs are domestic" and "made in Germany" merely means assembled in Germany (there is no difference in German law) - umm so what is different about what the Swiss and Germans are doing and what Shinola is doing. Shinola is taking parts from China and Swiss movements and assembling it in the USA. Swiss companies take parts from China and Swiss movements and assembling it in Switzerland. So why is there such a backlash against Shinola here? Swiss companies use Chinese cases and Taiwan dials too. if only 60% of the manufacturing costs have to be in Switzerland then obviously the assembly itself - given that the Swiss have really high wages - would satisfy that. But no one is calling out Tag Heuer and Baume&Mercier for not really being 'Swiss Made' when they do this. pertaining to 2) - aren't a lot of Swiss companies charging at least as much as Shinola is charging for their quartz watches? Here's a few : https://www.rado.com/collections/true-square/true-square/R27079312 - Rado sells their quartz watches for $1600 https://frederiqueconstant.com/watch-findeclassics/art-deco-oval-fc-200mpw2vd6b/ - Frederique Constant sells their quartz watches for $3k+ https://www.mauricelacroix.com/ch_en/watches/watches-aikon-quartz/aikon-date-42mm-ai1008-ss002-332-1 - Maurice Lacroix sells their quartz watches for $900+ https://www.raymond-weil.us/product/tango-8160-stp-00308/ - Raymond Weil sells their quartz watches for $1100+ https://www.tagheuer.com/us/en/timepieces/collections/tag-heuer-aquarace35-mm-quartz/WAY131K.BA0748.html - Tag Heuer sells their quartz watches for $1500+ https://www.baume-et-mercier.com/en/collections/classima-women/watch-classima-10477-date.html - Baume&Mercier sell their quartz watches for $1200+ https://www.hamiltonwatch.com/en-ca/h24551131-ventura-elvis80-quartz.html - Hamilton sells their quartz watches for $1000 ..so why is no one calling out Swiss companies for overcharging on their quartz? People keep saying yeah Shinola are overpriced quartz watches you can buy better mechanicals, Seikos etc for that price - can't you say the same for the Swiss quartz watches too? Is there something different or 'better' about these Swiss quartz watches that Shinola doesn't have? After all doesn't the Shinola use a Ronda (Swiss) quartz movement? So I just want to know, from actual Shinola owners - is the quality actually truly bad and are the watches really overpriced as people say or are people just not aware that Swiss companies do the exact same thing that Shinola does?
2020.05.20 14:09 DeathOfChaos90Looking for Solid Ram Advice
I've recently made a huge upgrade to my PC build. I went from an AsRock Faral1ty K6 Z170 board paired with a 7700K to an Aorus Xtreme x570 paired with a 3950X. I also got a new case and upgraded from a 240mm AIO to a 360mm AIO but everything else I carried over, including the RAM that I really feel like is holding me back, a 16GB kit of Ripjaw V clocked at 2400Mhz. They did a decent job on the Z170 board but not so much with the Ryzen build. I have some options that I'd like to choose from but figured I'd get some advice from those who are more familiar with Ryzen. First off, I wouldn't mind getting a 2x32GB kit to really give the 3950X an edge for productive work and VM usage. I know that speed is basically not an option at this capacity, at least not at an affordable standpoint but I have seen some 3600Mhz 64GB kits from Corsair (one with and one without RGB) that I could possibly just clock down to 3200Mhz and maybe tighten latencies and I could possibly get some speed boost that way. I don't see myself going this route but it's definitely a cool thought. I've also considered a 2x16GB kit. There's a Trident Z kit that seems to clock pretty decent that I could at least have an upgrade in capacity but also run at a good sweet spot with Ryzen. I almost feel like this is the most safe bet in terms of RAM upgrade. Then there's the legendary 2x8GB B Die sticks that I can choose from but they can get super pricey. There's a particular kit that's caught my eye though from Team Group. It's a 2x8GB Xtreem kit that clocks all the way up to 4500Mhz and is CL18. I really want to upgrade my capacity to make it seem less like a side-grade but if I can just clock it down until it hits 1:1 with the Infinity Fabric, I feel like I could get a real bang for my buck in terms of speed. I can get the 4500Mhz kit for about $180 or the 4300Mhz kit for about $135. I've seen some people get one of these two down to 3800Mhz @CL12 which seems pretty amazing, but is there any kind of problems with getting into CAS timings that are super low? I feel like this is the most adventurous route and sounds like it could be really fun and tweaking. I'd like to hear more about what some of you may think about this option. So, I'd just like to hear some opinions on this. I just want to get the most out of this processor and I feel like pairing it with the right memory could really give it the final touch to being the best that it can be. Here's the 64GB kit that I would consider. The RGB version is only an extra $10 so either one of those would work. I'd probably have to save back for it for a little while though: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Memory/VENGEANCE-LPX/p/CMK64GX4M2D3600C18 Here's the 32GB kit that I'm thinking would be best. It's listed on b die finder so I assume that it should be decent for what it is. I could possibly have a choice of going to 3800Mhz with looser timings, 3200Mhz with tighter timings or just switch on XMP and call it a day. Not too awful for options: https://www.gskill.com/product/165/166/1562839659/F4-3600C16D-32GTZR Here's the 2x8GB kit I'm interested in. Not only is there the possibility of getting the sweet spot frequency with extremely tight timings, the heat spreader also really fits the style of the Aorus Xtreme motherboard it'll be in: https://www.teamgroupinc.com/en/product/xtreem-ddr4 Thanks for everyone's input in advance!
2020.05.16 07:59 DealsCanada[Amazon.ca] Cheap Canvas Art ( between 10-20$ )
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2020.04.17 14:45 Fwoggie2Covid-19 update Friday 17th April
We’ve nearly made it through another week; it’s Friday 17th April, good morning from the UK. Almost nobody reading this will have the option of going out for drinks tonight so here’s the next best thing to a nice cold drink with a bunch of your mates in your favourite local bar; a digest blog about the impacts the virus continues to have on supply chains around the world. Apologies for the lack of general virus news, it’s been a very busy day on the day job so I stuck to just the supply chain stuff today. If you are interested in general affairs relating to Covid-19, today's Guardian blog is here, CNN is here and France 24's is here. If you want a sports article, try this unusual story about two time darts champion Gary Anderson and his wifi woes here.
Supply chain news in depth
Certificates for transporting dangerous goods extended for Covid-19 - the Loadstar has an article saying that with many of the critical supplies needed to suppress the Covid-19 pandemic being ‘dangerous goods’, multiple countries have extended dangerous goods certifications that were due for renewal by six months. These include ADR licences (needed by truck drivers for road transport of dangerous goods) whilst in the UK, the Civil Aviation Authority has extended all ‘dangerous goods by air’ certificates due to expire before 31 October to a new expiry date of 22 November whilst the US has not formally extended but the enforcement agencies have indicated that they will not take action against employees who have not received refresher or recurrent training because of the Covid-19 emergency. Dangerous goods in heavy demand because of Covid-19 include hand sanitisers, chemicals used for decontamination and patient testing, as well as test samples from those infected. Forwarders asked to watch for dangerous fake PPE in supply chains - The Loadstar reports that forwarders are being urged to be extra vigilant as criminals try to infiltrate the supply chain during the Covid-19 crisis. UK Border Force and its partners have warned the industry it has identified trends showing criminals are exploiting the current situation, pushing fake medicines and PPE into supply chains. The agency said criminals were “specifically targeting the vulnerable and those at most risk during the Covid-19 crisis. These goods are not fit for purpose, offering little or no protection, and will cost lives if successfully imported into the UK.” It is thought that all developed countries are facing this problem at present. Severe road, sea and air disruption in India due to botched lockdown - Loadstar says that according to a new report by DHL’s Resilience360, only 120,000 out of the 1.2 million trucks with national permits are currently on the road. It says: “While freight movement is permitted amid the nationwide lockdowns, road movements have been severely impacted due to inter-state restrictions and the lack of available drivers. “Inter-state borders continue to be monitored, but the movement of essential goods is subject to permission from state police.” Confusion reigned between national and state authorities over which industries were “essential” and whether cargo could be transported as normal. “Despite some states putting out additional notices calling for the movement of goods not to be interrupted,” said Resilience360, “there have been continued cases of police stopping vehicles carrying essential goods in transit. “Further administrative delays have also surfaced, with firms needing to negotiate with state authorities to be classified as an essential supplier.” “Hardly any flights, including freighters, are coming into India due to cargo terminal congestion, triggered by a lack of operational staff,” said Resilience360. “Especially at temperature-controlled facilities where shipments have stopped being accepted or permitted, for instance, at Mumbai.” The lockdown impact on container ports has also been “devastating”, the report continues, with force majeure declared and severe cargo congestion at Jawaharal Nehru Port Trust (JNPT) and Mundra, again due to a lack of drivers and only a fraction of imported containers being collected. Ocean carriers have announced more blank sailings from Asia to Europe and the US, as they struggle to match capacity with falling demand - Loadstar reports “THE Alliance (THEA) partners Hapag-Lloyd, ONE, Yang Ming and HMM will cancel two additional headhaul voyages of the FE5 loop in weeks 21 and 23 at the end of May and suspend the FE4 string for two months from the end of April – from weeks 18 to 26. The final FE4 voyage before the suspension is next week, with the sailing from Qingdao of the 24,000 teu HMM Algeciras, the first voyage of HMM’s flagship ULCV within THEA, and it could see the world’s largest containership idled after it completes the round trip. The South Korean carrier joined THEA as a full member on 1 April. It is due to receive 12 24,000 new ULCVs by September, all stemmed to be phased into the FE4 loop, to replace 11 Hapag-Lloyd 15,000 teu vessels. Now they will potentially have no employment after they leave the shipyard. The suspension of the FE4 loop is also bad news for the UK’s London Gateway port as Hapag-Lloyd said its “cargo flows can be routed via our FE3 and FE5”, neither of which calls there.” (Translation for non supply chain specialists: THE Alliance (THEA for short) is an alliance of container ship firms, much like American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LATAM plus a couple of others are part of the Oneworld airline alliance. The alliance is suspending two sailings from Asia to Europe of their FE5 route (map of the route here) in weeks 21 and 23 - we are currently at the end of week 16. They will also suspend the FE4 route (map of that route here) in entirety for two months from weeks 18 to 26. The final sailing of FE4 will be HMM Algeciras which has capacity for 24,000 TEU - TEU meaning twenty foot equivalent units, two of those fit on the back of a full length truck - so it’s one heck of a big ship and they’re often known as a ULCV, Ultra Large Container Vessel with few ports able to handle such large ships. The problem is particularly bad for the South Korean carrier HMM because it’s due to get 12 ships this size between now and September and is unlikely to have enough cargo to stick on them to make a profit. The UK’s London Gateway port is going to get affected by suspension of the FE4 route because FE4 visits Le Havre and Antwerp but not London Gateway - but FE3 visits both Le Havre and Antwerp before hitting the London Gateway, the point being it makes it harder for traffic coming from Asia to easily reach the London Gateway port so may lose the traffic to other routings). Logistics firms now count the real cost of dividends and buybacks - Alessandro Pasetti (one of Loadstar’s senior columnists) has written an in-hindsight review of major global transportation companies financial policies in recent years given the sudden battle for survival that many find themselves in. Pasetti has specifically looked at dividend payments and/or stock buybacks, both of which cost companies cash but which can shore up the apparent value of your company. Having a high valuation on your company is attractive, particularly for company executives who are often assessed against such things by having share price targets and/or being compensated to one degree or another in shares. That said, they cost cash and if volumes start drying up you can end up with high cost overheads that burn cash quicker than you get new supplies of it in which is why having cash reserves is always a good idea. Expeditors and K&N are good from his point of view but FedEx raises an eyebrow and XPO is good but doesn’t have that much of a spare cash pile and may struggle if significant virus problems stretch into late summer. XPO’s CEO has written a letter to all shareholders saying that “we’ve deliberately built XPO like a bulletproof tank to surmount all kinds of challenges” which you can read here. Amazon shuts down distribution centers in France - CNN reports that Amazon is suspending its distribution activity in France after a court ruled it had to stop all non-essential deliveries during the coronavirus pandemic. The ruling on Tuesday followed the filing of a complaint by a French labor union which accused the online delivery giant of endangering the lives of workers. In a statement Wednesday, the company said it was "perplexed" by the court ruling that ordered Amazon (AMZN) to restrict its local delivery operations to essential goods only, or face a penalty of 1 million euros ($1.1 million) for each day it failed to comply. Amazon said it plans to appeal the ruling. Citing the high penalties imposed by the court and the "complexity inherent in our logistic activities," Amazon said it would temporarily suspend activities in their distribution centers "despite the huge investment that we have made to ensure and strengthen by additional measures the safety of our employees who remained mobilized during this crisis. The company said it will ask employees of their distribution centers to stay at home, but "will continue to serve our customers in France through independent companies that sell on Amazon" through its global distribution network. African agriculture digital supply chain case study for students - (This isn’t directly Covid-19 related, but I thought students might appreciate it, I know there’s quite a lot of you here). Digital supply chains solutions are continuing to provide alternative solutions for connecting producers with customers as you’ve hopefully been taught so if interested here’s an interesting agricultural supply chain solution case study I found in Africa - Mkulima Young (Young Farmer in English). The company now has a successful agricultural online platform in Kenya and East Africa with over 130,000 social media followers and around 20,000 registered users and provides digital agricultural marketing and advisory services to small-scale farmers and links consumers interested in supporting local farmers. The aim is to attract young people back into the business of farming, by improving their earning potential. This year MY and Kyeema (an Australian charity that focuses on African agriculture support) are partnering to improve smallholders’ agricultural productivity, sustainability, market access and information through the MY digital platform. The project also aims to enhance the functionalities of the platform, including use of data for marketing analysis and better decision-making power for farmers. Mkulima Young has attracted funding from the Australian High Commission in Nairobi and is aiming to expand its reach in East Africa and in the future hopes be able to inform policy development on big data applications, particularly in agricultural marketing. There is additional information on the company via linkedin, youtube and the Daily Nation (a major Kenyan newspaper) if so interested but you’ll have to find that yourself. Meat packing plant closures are increasing in the US - Supplychaindive says that temporary closures at some of the U.S.'s largest meat processing plants have executives and meat supply chain stakeholders worried that large disruptions in processing will cause a devastating ripple effect upstream to livestock farmers and feed producers. USDA data for animal protein production rates and cold storage volumes are updated near the end of each month therefore March figures do not show the impact of the most recent plant closures. The next data disclosure is April 28, according to the agency. "These facility closures will also have severe, perhaps disastrous, repercussions for many in the supply chain, first and foremost our nation's livestock farmers. These farmers have nowhere to send their animals,” said Sullivan. (Personal note: If you’re American, eat a lot of meat and have a lot of freezer space, you might want to consider stocking up soon).
Supply chain news in brief
Splash247 reports that Rodolphe Saadé has issued a video on the CMA CGM website outlining his vision of a more equitable and resilient supply chain in the future, post-coronavirus. The chairman of the world’s fourth largest containerline said yesterday: “This crisis will no doubt change our consumer and working habits. It will impact world economic flows and will necessitate that we all rethink our supply chain models.” Supply chains will need to be redesigned to be more resilient, Saadé said, adding that they would also need to be able to react better to sharp reductions in supply and demand. “Digitalisation has become an integral part of our lives during lockdown and will continue to have a major impact both on logistics flows, as well as on interactions between us all,” Saadé said. In the future, Saadé said goods would be sought from a greater range of suppliers with more manufacturing moving nearer to the end-consumer. As part of its strategy during the coronavirus crisis CMA CGM has started sending ships via the Cape of Good Hope in both directions from and to Asia and Europe, giving the Suez Canal a miss, to soak up capacity during the downturn. The Port of Virginia, one of the biggest ports on the US east coast, is taking drastic action and suspending operations at terminals in line with the slew of blanked sailings announced by container carriers recently says Splash247. Effective from May 4, the port’s Portsmouth Marine Terminal (PMT) will be closed while the number of hours truck gates are open at other terminals will be reduced. “As an industry, we are faced with a record number of blank sailings, and idled containerships, due to the COVID-19 pandemic. We have witnessed a marked decline in current and forecasted volumes from our shippers and ocean carriers,” the port stated in a release. The idled container fleet is on the cusp of passing the 3m teu mark for the first time in history as hundreds of sailings have been blanked because of dropping demand brought about by the coronavirus pandemic. Chicago Rockford (a specialist cargo airport) has seen over 30% year on year growth in cargo volumes to 273,500 tonnes for Q1 2020. Key generators of volume have included UPS, Amazon and FEMA says Stat Times (link). United has continued to expand its cargo operations to more than 150 flights a week says Stat Times (link). Out of its six hubs in the US, cargo flights are available to/from Chengdu, Hong Kong, Peking, Shanghai, Sydney, Taipei, Amsterdam, Brussels, Dublin, Frankfurt, London Heathrow, San Juan Puerto Rico and Tel Aviv. Loadstar reports that Schiphol’s cargo flights are still very much operational during the viral outbreak with it handling 360 flights a week, up 100 flights a week since the outbreak began. Cargo characteristics have changed with medical products dominating more than the usual flowers whilst Dutch customs have set up an extensive back office to keep things moving quickly. A chartered Airbus A319 has flown from Cluj to Leipzig carrying 135 harvest workers for seasonal farm work. After landing, the passengers completed a compulsory health check with temperature measurement before travel by bus on to the seasonal jobs in Saxony, Saxony-Anhalt, Hesse, Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania and Lower Saxony. Leipzig / Halle Airport provided signs in Romanian and distance markers to help enforce current hygiene regulations. Leipzig / Halle Airport announced that Another flight is scheduled for next Monday. However, the airport also cautioned that last-minute changes are possible. (Source; Stat Times) The European road freight market could shrink by almost 20% this year, due to the coronavirus pandemic. In new research from Transport Intelligence (Ti), published today, Ti’s original forecast of 2.1% growth in Europe’s road freight has had to be radically revised with the outbreak of Covid-19 and the subsequent social lockdown. It says the best Europe’s road freight operators could hope for now would be a 4.8% contraction, and in the worst case it could be a 17% contraction, which it described as “far worse than the great recession of 2008/9” (Loadstar link)
2020.04.15 12:16 ohji67karlmayer three mysteries people debunked.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzEGqqZM4OY Don't you know what these people are on 2:05, I was searching on imagine finder and found this, I think they are Sergei Prokudin-Gorskii, A.P. Kalganov with son and granddaughter. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sergei\_Prokudin-Gorskii%2C\_A.P.\_Kalganov\_with\_son\_and\_granddaughter%2C\_ca.\_1910.jpg I find it really interesting that Sergey Prokudin-Gorsky was a Russian chemist and photographer. ”Sergey Mikhaylovich Prokudin-Gorsky (Russian: Сергей Михайлович Прокудин-Горский, August 30 [O.S. August 18] 1863 – September 27, 1944) was a Russian chemist and photographer. He is best known for his pioneering work in colour photography and his effort to document early 20th-century Russia.Using a railroad-car darkroom provided by Tsar Nicholas II, Prokudin-Gorsky traveled the Russian Empire from around 1909 to 1915 using his three-image colour photography to record its many aspects. While some of his negatives were lost, the majority ended up in the U.S. Library of Congress after his death. Starting in 2000, the negatives were digitised and the colour triples for each subject digitally combined to produce hundreds of high-quality colour images of century-ago Russia.” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sergey_Prokudin-Gorsky Also, I don't why these people are put in this video, I really don't.
With the current situation, people may be looking for dispensaries with online ordering/pickup available. *dutchie.com - Spiritleaf, Daikoku, Canna Cabana, FOUR20, New Leaf, Dutch Love, King Street, Glenora, Uncle Sam's *Fire & Flower Fast Lane *New Leaf *Leafly - Cannamart, Choom Cannabis, Nova Cannabis Elevate *Elevate - Online ordering for Mayfield location *Crown Cannabis - Online pickup ordering *BudaBoom Online ordering *Praire Records Online ordering *Royal Street Online ordering *AGLC site - Currently the only legal Mail order delivery in AB Other (legal) suggestions? [Edited periodically to make this a list with suggestions from thread]
2020.04.01 20:10 FCattheOGEmails and Phone Calls of the Day 4/1/2020
Emails of the day! I know you all have been waiting for this for a while! Instead of doing a day by day breakdown I'll just run down all the phone calls and emails of hilarious note for the past two weeks before I jump into the day to day. ring ring FC: Go for FC 1: Hi! Do you sell ammo? FC: Sure do. 1: Great! I need 9mm and 223. FC: Got some. That'll be $650. 1: Oh I don't need a full case of a thousand, I just need like 500 rds each. FC: That was 500 rounds of each. 1: Oh. (repeat 10 times before noon) Subject: Sig MCX Message: Hey is the Sig MCX rifle still available? FC: Can you be more specific? 1: Sure. The MCX in 556. FC: The one in black, the SBR, the pistol, I need more than that. 1: The black 16" gun FC: That's here. 1: Are you open to trades? FC: I Trade when I make money. What you got? 1: I have two glocks. A go pro. Camera a5000. iPad 4 mini. Apple Watch series 3. But how much for cash price? FC: $2500 cash out the door TODAY. I'm not really setup to sell used consumer electronic goods like a pawn shop - and even if I was - some fast math tells me that we'd be too far apart. 1: What is your location? FC: BTR 1: What’s the name of the pawn shop? FC: I don’t understand your question. 1: Sorry thought you said you was a pawn shop. But I just read it. Let me get the money together. Do you have pics of it FC: (stock footage attached) here you go 1: Would you take a Chevy 2005 running FC: Chevy does not make a 2005 running 1: To trade for your rifle FC: 2005 chevy isn't really specific, but if you got a nice 3/4 ton - you got yourself a trade 1: It's a 2005 Chevy Malibu red running FC: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74ocbvwam7c&feature=youtu.be&t=30 Subject: Glock 17 Message: Are you an FFL? FC: I am not, but my company is 1: Then you're part of the problem. What part of shall not be infringed do you not understand? FC: The part where I'm not going to prison because you think a 4473 is unconstitutional. 1: I'll take my business elsewhere to a gun dealer that is a true patriot FC: Make sure they're not like me. 1: How's that? FC: I'm too pretty for prison. (ring ring) FC: Go for FC 1: Hi, the local machine shop told me I needed to call a federal firearm licensee. Can you help me? FC: what do you need? (15 MINUTE CONVERSATION ABOUT HOW HE WANTS TO PROTOTYPE SOME AIR GUN AMMUNITION AND HE HAS NO IDEA HOW TO BUILD IT AND WANTS ME TO RAPID PROTOTYPE THIS FOR HIM) FC: Imagine you just invented a awesome design for a new tire. 1: Okay FC: Now you take that design over to the Costco tire center and you ask the guys there to help you with a prototype 1: Okay FC: How well do you think that will go? 1: Not very FC: BECAUSE THAT'S WHAT YOU'RE DOING TO ME RIGHT NOW DURING THE BUSIEST MONTH WE HAVE SEEN SINCE SANDY HOOK How many phone calls does it take to buy a glock 19? I get 8 calls from someone before he can show up. We go through glock generations, 4473 questions, all the gamut of new gun owner questions. He tells me his ID has his old address. Will that be a problem? FC: No problem. Just get your ID fixed and I'll hold the gun here and just bring me back your updated one. 1: Uh. I can't do that. FC: Why not? 1: The state DL offices are closed. FC: that's a you problem 1: Will voter registration work? FC: Sure. Just bring it with you. He calls me up AS HE IS ALONG THE WAY WITH HIS MOM and asks me if I need the voter registration with him. I say if you don't have it, I'll run everything with your old ID and you bring me the voter reg to pickup. He turns around and goes home. Guy shows up, his mom drives him and he fills out the 4473 and he says he is having some problems with the ID section. He has a valid state DL without a current address and a voter registration with his current address. I tell him that he needs to read the form carefully. Particularly the line below the signature field. Stop and ask me if you have any questions. He stops. 1: Sir, I understand you can't help me with the form but how am I supposed to know how to fill out the DL part if I don't know if the supplemental ID will meet ATF's requirement? FC: did you hear what I said when I said you need to read the form carefully? 1: I did, and I understand that and I read the form but I'm having a problem figuring out box 18a and 18b FC: Stop. Did you hear what I said when I said you need to read the form? 1: Yes! And I read the form! and it says what kind of supplemental government issued documentation....... FC: Stop. DID. YOU. READ. THE. FORM. 1: Okay fuck this I'm not buying this fucking gun. FC: See, this is like marriage counseling. We're talking. We're not communicating. Lets start over. (I flip over the form) FC: Do you see what this says? (points at Section A must be completed by Buyer) 1: Yes. FC: What's that say? 1: Must be completed by buyer FC: Do you see what this says? (points at Section B must be completed by Seller) 1: Yes FC: What's that say? 1: Must be completed by seller FC: And who's the buyer? 1: Me. FC: And who's the seller? 1: You. FC: So, what's the problem here? 1: Look, this is my first time buying a gun - I get that you can't give me the answers but..... FC: Do you remember when I said you need to read the form carefully? 1: Yes FC: Read what this says out loud Do you see what this says? (points at Section A must be completed by Buyer) 1: So where the fuck does section A stop? FC: Do you see what this says? (points at Section B must be completed by Seller) 1: Oh I am such a dumbass. You tried to tell me didn't you? 14 phone calls to get scheduled/questions answered/etc - just to move a Glock 19 Gen 4. At least I got $700 for it. To be fair........the front page section A was 100% perfect. Lady and husband come in. The husband is concerned that social unrest will target them in their new house. Their budget for a new home defense weapon? $600. I sell them a used Springfield XD with three mags for $550. Subject: Gun Club Operations Message: We're open, all events cancelled though. Someone stole all the TP and Paper Towels. If you go to the club, you are on your own in that regard. (Editors note: WHAT THE FUCK? This is YOUR FUCKING GUN CLUB. You want to know why we can't have nice things? This is why we can't have nice things) Subject: You've got to be kidding me Message: These prices cannot be for real FC: Every wholesaler is sold out. I have product and nobody else does. 1: Colt Sporter's are selling for $1100 which is $600 overpriced. When the smoke clears everyone who overpaid from you will never buy from you again FC: People not buying from me because I'm priced too high? That sounds like any day that ends in Y. But let me know where you're seeing $500 colts! I'll buy them all day and throw you a finders fee. That's a $1300 gun all day long. 1: You should be ashamed of yourself for price gouging FC: I hear there's a Bernie Sanders rally for you folks in a few weeks. 1: You sicken me FC: HashtagFIGHTFORFIFTEEN - and thanks for reminding me, I just raised that M&P15 sport to $875. I sold three today at that price. (ring ring) FC: Go for FC 1: What Glock 45's you have in stock? FC: Model 45 or caliber? 1: Caliber FC: I got 41/21/30/30SF/36 in stock 1: can you mail it to me? I live 4 hours away FC: Can go to an FFL near you 1: they're all closed. Can you ship one to my house? FC: Put it on a letterhead sale and I'll get it done 1: I can type that out. What's it need to say? FC: Needs the chief of your agency's signature - they'll know how to do it 1: So I just ask the chief of police to give me a letterhead and write you a letter? FC: Has to have the chief signature stating firearm is for offfical LE purposes. 1: Do they do that very often? FC: Depends on the agency. I mean.......I don't know down there. 1: So if I get a letter from the police chief you can ship me a gun to my house? FC: Sure can! Just needs to meet ATF specifications. 1: You are the man! Everyone else has told me that is illegal. I'll go ask them in the morning. FC: Good luck with that! (Editors note: Letterhead sales are to LE only, they're written on agency letterhead that says DEAR FFL: THIS GLOCK 7 S/N ABC1234 FOR SGT A. POWELL IS BEING USED FOR OFFICIAL LE DUTIES - SIGNED DEP CHIEF DUANE T ROBINSON - this guy is in for a rude awakening) Here's the in person rundown:
Guy wanting a Shockwave or a Tac14. Prefers the Tac14. That gun we haven’t had available in MONTHS. Some disappointment.
Guy wanting a box of 40S&W ammo. FMJ or HP. He’s got nothing.
Guy who made me order 3 guns for him the first week I opened and didn’t take any is now desperate for 9mm ammo. I told him I’d find him some. At $85/box.
Someone wants me to sell him a gun, gets mad when he finds out I have to perform a background check and leaves.
Sold an AR15 lower out of state to a guy who had a credit card ready and legible FFL. That was a bright spot in the day.
6: 1: I need a Glock 26 Me: I have to order it, out of stock 1: Okay that’s fine as long as it’s not an extensive wait Me: Define extensive 1: If it’s going to take longer than 2 weeks, I’m just going to buy from someone else that has one in stock. Me: Yeah uh I don't think you know how this works. 7: Guy finds out background checks are 7 hour wait. Tells me he wants me to run him to see if he can buy a gun before he can buy a gun. I tell him that's not how it works. If he flunks he does not want to be tied up with a delay and without gun or money and leaves. Fucking people wasting my goddamn time.
Four people ask me for very specific items and say they're picking up after work. All four no show. I'm pissed.
All in all, not a bad way to move some product. If the good lord didn't want me to shear em - he wouldn't have made em all look like sheep.. April 1 2020 My morning kicked off with some emails of fail. One guy in CA begging for a Glock 19 Gen 5 and wanting it shipped to his house. Insta-delete. Another wanting me to find him a Gen 3 Austrian gun for MSRP with 10 rd mags. Unobtanium. Delete. Email: Can you come by my office around 10? Message: Hey will, it's dr livingston - my staff is freaked out about what's going on. I'd like to take you up on your roadshow offer. Can you bring a few guns by the office around 10AM today and show my staff what they may need in these crazy times? I tell the doc no problem. I grab two of my gun show loadout boxes and I call into Jersey mikes and have them deliver lunch for them. Sandwiches and semi automatics, two of my favorite things. The nurses love the gesture and they say I'm just like a drug rep. Haha. Doc and his partner and his brother show up for the lunch and I take down a stack of orders and they all tell me they'll stop in and do 4473's after rounds at the hospital later this afternoon. I get back to my desk and get 5 rifles ready to ship out to CA. I sold 5 Daniel Defense DDM4 V7's at MSRP to Californiastan between yesterday and today. We rockin. Megan's spa will be closed for two weeks so she's been pretty bored. She shows up and brings me lunch. A jersey mikes number 9. I laugh and tell her I already ate, but she's sweet. I open my desk drawer and get her an endangered species 88% cocoa bean to bar organic chocolate bar. Megan: JUST HOW MUCH CHOCOLATE DO YOU HAVE IN THERE? Me: Enough to brigthen your day for...... a while if this does not blow over. Megan: You thought of everything, didn't you? Me: I'm a gun owner, we do that. Megan: I love you Me: I love you too. She gives me a kiss and I tell her to head home where I'll see her later tonight. Little does she know I went grocery shopping and I'm planning on making her dinner and dessert from scratch later tonight. Grilled salmon, steamed asparagus and chocolate souffle is on the menu. Life isn't good, but it's certainly not bad. No it's not. FC out.
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